V KERBELÂ TO BAGHDÂD 159 VI BAGHDÂD TO MÔṢUL 198 THE RUINS OF SÂMARRÂ 231 VII MÔṢUL TO ZÂKHÔ 247 VIII ZÂKHÔ TO DIYÂRBEKR 289 IX DIYÂRBEKR TO KONIA 327 INDEX 361 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE THE MONASTERY OF RABBÂN HORMUZD _Frontispiece_ ALEPPO, THE CITADEL _To face_ 10 ALEPPO, HITTITE LION IN CITADEL 10 BASALT EAGLE IN THE FRENCH CONSULATE 10 ALEPPO, JÂMI’ ESH SHAIBÎYEH, CORNICE 11 FIRDAUS, MEDRESSEH OF EL MALIK EẒ ẒÂHIR 11 ALEPPO, JÂMI’ EL ḤELAWÎYEH 12 FIRDAUS, A TOMB 12 ALEPPO, A MAMLÛK DOME 13 ALEPPO, A MAMLÛK DOME 13 KHÂN EL WAZÎR 14 KHÂN ES SABÛN 14 WINDOW OF A TURBEH, FIRDAUS 15 GATE OF CITADEL, ALEPPO 15 ALEPPO, THE GREAT MOSQUE 26 TELL AḤMAR FERRY 26 TELL AḤMAR 27 CARCHEMISH FROM THE BIG MOUND 27 TELL AḤMAR, HITTITE STELA 30 TELL AḤMAR, EARTHENWARE JAR 30 SERRÎN, NORTHERN TOWER TOMB 31 SERRÎN, SOUTHERN TOWER TOMB 31 SERRÎN, NORTH TOWER TOMB, PLAN AND ELEVATION SHOWING MOULDINGS 36 INSCRIPTION IN CAVE NEAR SERRÎN 40 WIFE AND CHILDREN OF A WELDEH SHEIKH 46 PLAN OF MUNBAYAH 45 MUNBAYAH, WATER GATE 47 NESHABAH, TOWER TOMB 47 MAḤALL ES ṢAFṢÂF 49 ḲAL’AT JA’BAR 50 ḲAL’AT JA’BAR, MINARET 50 ḲAL’AT JA’BAR, HALL OF PALACE 51