On the following day a dense mist hung over the valley. An hour from
Kahf ez Zaḳḳ the path left the Euphrates at a spot called Maḥârîz where
there are said to be ruins, but owing to the fog I could see nothing of
them.[43] Three-quarters of an hour later we returned to the river and
rode under low cliffs in which there were caves; my guide called the
place Ḳdirân, which is, I suppose, Kiepert’s Ghirân. Here again we left
the water’s edge, and half-an-hour later the fog melted away and
revealed a monotonous green plain with the camels of the Weldeh
pasturing over it. In summer it is a favourite camping-ground of the
’Anazeh. At Billânî, three and a half hours from our starting-point, we
rejoined the Euphrates. Billânî is visible from afar by reason of a
number of bare tree-trunks set in the ground to mark the Arab graves
which are grouped about the resting-place of some holy man. The ancient
sanctity of the place is still attested by numerous shafts of columns
among the graves, but seventy years ago Chesney could make out a small
octagonal temple.[44] It was a fine site for temple or for tomb. The
river comes down towards it through many channels in the shape of a
great fan, gathers itself into a single stream, broad and deep, and so
sweeps under the high bank on which the fragments of the shrine are
scattered, and beyond it round a wide bend clothed with thickets of
tamarisk and thorn and blackberry. Through these thickets we rode for
two hours and a half, and
[Illustration: FIG. 34.--ḤARAGLAH, VAULT.]
[Illustration: FIG. 35.--RAḲḲAH, EASTERN MINARET.]
[Illustration: FIG. 37.--RAḲḲAH, MOSQUE FROM EAST.]
[Illustration: FIG. 38.--RAḲḲAH, ARCADE OF MOSQUE, FROM NORTH.]
then camped under a mound called Tell ’Abd ’Alî, not far from a couple
of very poor tents of the Afâḍleh, with the river a mile away. The night
was exquisitely still, but from time to time an owl cried with a shrill
note like that of a shepherd-boy calling to his flocks.
[Illustration: FIG. 33.--ḤARAGLAH.]
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