The village, like all the villages in these parts, lies mainly upon an
island, though a small modern suburb has sprung up upon the right bank.
At the upper end of the island are the ruins of a castle, not unlike the
ruins at ’Ânah. A bridge had been thrown over both arms of the river,
and a straight causeway across the island had connected the two parts.
Needless to say, the bridge has fallen. Still more remarkable, and quite
unexpected, was a large area of ruins some way inland on the Shâmîyeh
side, hidden from the river village by a ridge of high ground. It must
have been the site of a big town. In one place I saw four columns lying
upon the ground, no doubt pre-Mohammadan, though upon one of them were
four lines of a much-defaced Arabic inscription of which I could read
only a few words.[70] Nearer to the river, and visible from it, are a
number of small mazârs, remarkable only because their pointed dome-like
roofs show the same construction that is to be seen in the famous tomb
of the Sitt Zobeideh at Baghdâd.
From ’Ânah the river landscape is exceedingly monotonous: a few naouras
and a patch or two of cultivation, each with its farmhouse, a small
domestic mud fortress with a tower; an occasional village set in a grove
of palm-trees on an island in midstream. The houses were of sun-dried
brick, the walls sloping slightly inwards, and crowned with a low mud
battlement--line for line a copy of their prototypes on the Assyrian
reliefs. This world, which was already sufficiently dreary, was rendered
unspeakably hideous by the east wind. River, sky and mud-built houses
showed the universal dun colour of the desert, and even the palm-trees
turned a sickly hue, their fronds dishevelled by the blast and steeped
in dust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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