An hour and a half from Ḥadîthah we crossed the Wâdî Ḥajlân, in which
there is a brackish spring. Just opposite its mouth are the remains of a
castle on an island, Abu Sa’îd, but the greater part of the island, and
with it the castle, has been carried away by the stream. Below it is the
palm-covered island of Berwân. Twenty minutes further we passed over a
dry valley, Wâdî Fâḍîyeh, where I left the high road and crossed the
desert to Alûs, which we reached in an hour and forty minutes. Kiepert,
following Chesney, calls it Al’ Uzz, but I doubt whether this spelling
can be justified; the Arab geographers knew it as Alûs or Alûsah, and
the name has not changed until this day. The village stands on an
island, but there is also a ruined castle on the right bank of the
river. We rode straight from Alûs to Jibbeh in two hours, though the
zaptiehs reckon it three for a caravan. There was nothing to encourage
us to loiter, inasmuch as our path lay over a horrible wilderness,
stony, waterless and devoid of any growing thing. Rather more than
half-way across we came to the ’Uglet Ḥaurân, a valley which is said to
have its source in the Ḥaurân mountains south of Damascus. At the point
where we crossed it, it was dry, but my zaptieh told me that there were
springs higher up and that in wet years the water will flow down it from
the Ḥaurân to the Euphrates. The wind was so strong that I could not row
over to the village which stands on the island of Jibbeh, though I was
tempted by the tall round minaret that rises from among the palm-trees.
As far as I could see through my glasses, it bears an inscription on its
summit and a brick dog-tooth cornice. On the Jezîreh bank there is a
large and well-preserved fortress. We reached the solitary khân of
Baghdâdî a few minutes later; the caravan was there before us, having
accomplished what is reckoned to be a nine-hours’ stage in eight hours
sixteen minutes. The village of Baghdâdî is an hour’s march lower down,
and the khân by which we camped was only four months old; “Before that,”
said Fattûḥ, “we used to sleep under the sky, and there was no one but
us and the jackals.” I had heard that Fadh Beg Ibn Hudhdhâl had a garden
at Baghdâdî, and I cherished a hope that we might meet there one of his
family who would help us on the way to Kheiḍir; but when we passed by
the garden a solitary negro was in charge, and as the palms were not yet
three feet high, I could not blame Fadh Beg for not having elected to
dwell among them. There was nothing to be done but to ride on to
Hît.[71]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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