From Baghdâdî the road climbs up into the barren hills. It is no better
than a staircase cut out of the rock, and Fattûḥ admitted that carriage
driving is not an easy matter here. He added that the stage from
Baghdâdî to Hît is less secure than any other, by reason of its being
infested by the Deleim who exact a toll from unguarded caravans. We had
found two zaptiehs at the khân and had taken one on with us when we sent
the Ḥadîthah man back, leaving the khân protected by a single zaptieh,
so limited is the number of soldiers posted along the road. If you are
not a person of sufficient consequence to claim an escort, you must wait
until a body of travellers shall have collected at Baghdâd or Aleppo, as
the case may be, and set forth in their company, since it is not safe
to venture singly over the Sultan’s highroad. We met that morning a
large caravan of people driving, riding in panniers, and walking. No
matter what their degree, all wore the singularly abandoned aspect to
which only the Oriental on a journey can attain, and the shapelessness
of their baggage enhanced their personal disqualifications. About
half-an-hour after the caravan had passed, we came upon five or six
ragged peasants, who stopped us and lifted their voices in lamentation.
They had been held up by five Deleimîs in the valley below; their cloaks
had been taken from them, and the bread that was to have sufficed them
till they reached ’Ânah: “We are poor men,” they wailed. “God curse
those who rob the poor!”
“God curse all the Deleim!” cried Fattûḥ. “Why did you linger behind the
caravan in this part of the road?”
“We were weary and one of us had fallen lame,” they explained. “But have
a care when you reach the valley bottom; five men with rifles are
lurking among the sand-hills.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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