"Names, please," said the smiling man in waiting, opening what appeared
to be the book of fate. We added ours to the long list of pilgrims and
strangers who had sojourned here, dotting our i's and crossing our t's
in the most elegant manner imaginable. If any one has a doubt as to our
early advantages, let him examine the record of the Washington Hotel,
Liverpool. The heading, "Remarks," upon the page, puzzled us. Were they
to be of a sacred or profane nature? Of an autobiographical character?
Were they to refer to the dear land we had just left? Through some
political throes she had just brought forth a ruler. Should we add to
the U. S. against our names, "As well as could be expected"? We
hesitated,--and wrote nothing. Up the wide stairs, past the transparency
of Washington--in the bluest of blue coats, the yellowest of top boots,
and an air of making the best of an unsought and rather ridiculous
position--we followed the doily upon the head of the pretty chambermaid
to our wide, comfortable room, with its formidable, high-curtained beds.
The satchels and parcels innumerable were propped carefully into
rectitude upon the dressing table, under the impression that the ship
would give a lurch; and then, gazing out through the great plate glass
windows upon the busy square below, we endeavored to compose our
perturbed minds and gather our scattered wits.
It is not beautiful, this great city of Liverpool, creeping up from the
sea. It has little to interest a stranger aside from its magnificent
docks and warehouses. There are mammoth truck horses from Suffolk, with
feet like cart wheels; there is St. George's Hall, the pride of the
people, standing in the busy square of the same name, with a statue of
the saint himself--a terror to all dragons--just before it. It is gray,
many columned, wide stepped, vast in its proportions. Do you care for
its measurement? Having seen that, you are ready to depart; and, indeed,
there is nothing to detain one here beyond a day of rest, a moment to
regain composure after the tossing of the sea. There are some
substantial dwellings,--for commerce has its kings,--and some fine
shops,--for commerce also has its queens,--and one fine drive, of which
we learned too late. The air of endurance, which pervades the whole
city, as it does all cities in the old world, impresses one greatly, as
though they were built for eternity, not time; the founders having
forgotten that here we are to have no continuing city. In the new world,
man tears down and builds up. Every generation moulds and fashions its
towns and cities after its own desires, or to suit its own means. Man is
master. In the old world, one generation after another surges in and out
of these grim, gray walls, leaving not so much as the mark the waves
leave upon the rocks. Unchanged, unchanging, they stand age after age,
time only softening the hard outlines, deepening the shadows it has cast
upon them, and so bringing them into a likeness of each other that they
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