First glimpse of the Rhine.--Cologne and the Cathedral.--"Shosef in ter red coat."--St. Ursula and the eleven thousand virgins.--Up the Rhine to Bonn.--The German students.--Rolandseck.--A search for a resting-place.--Our Dutch friend and his Malays.--The story of Hildegund.--A quiet Sabbath.-- Our Dutch friend's reply.--Coblentz.--The bridge of boats.--Ehrenbreitstein, over the river.--A scorching day upon the Rhine.--Romance under difficulties.-- Mayence.--Frankfort.--Heidelberg.--The ruined castle.--Baden-Baden.--A glimpse at the gambling.--The new and the old "Schloss."--The Black Forest.-- Strasbourg.--The mountains. 147 CHAPTER XIII. DAYS IN SWITZERLAND. The Lake of Lucerne.--Days of rest in the city.--An excursion up the Righi.--The crowd at the summit.-- Dinner at midnight.--Rising before "the early worm."--The "sun-rise" according to Murray.--Animated scarecrows.--Off for a tour through Switzerland.--The lake for the last time.--Grütlii.--William Tell's chapel.--Fluellen.--Altorf.--Swiss haymakers.--An hour at Amsteg.--The rocks close in.--The Devil's Bridge.-- The dangerous road.--"A carriage has gone over the precipice!"--Andermatt.--Desolate rocks.--Exquisite wild flowers.--The summit of the Furka.--A descent to the Rhone glacier.--Into the ice.--Swiss villages.-- Brieg.--The convent inn.--The bare little chapel on the hill.--To Martigny. 168 CHAPTER XIV. AMONG THE EVERLASTING HILLS. The quaint inn.--The Falls of the Sallenches, and the Gorge de Trient.--Shopping in a Swiss village.--A mule ride to Chamouni.--Peculiarities of the animals.--Entrance to the village.--Egyptian mummies lifted from the mules.--Rainy days.--Chamois.--The Mer de Glace.--"Look out of your window."--Mont Blanc.--Sallenches.--A diligence ride to Geneva.--Our little old woman.--The clownish peasant.--The fork in the road.--"Adieu." 189 CHAPTER XV. LAST DAYS IN SWITZERLAND. Geneva.--Calvin and jewelry.--Up Lake Leman.--Ouchy and Lausanne.--"Sweet Clarens."--Chillon.--Freyburg.-- Sight-seers.--The Last Judgment.--Berne and its bears.--The town like a story.--The Lake of Thun.-- Interlaken.--Over the Wengern Alp.--The Falls of Giessbach.--The Brunig Pass.--Lucerne again. 201 CHAPTER XVI. BACK TO PARIS ALONE.