An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
I was so exhausted that I did not feel equal to conveying my two men
across. I unloaded the stronger yak, and then, with endless trouble, I
drove him and his mate again into the water. Unhampered, and good
swimmers as they are, the two yaks floated away with the current and
reached the other side. Chanden Sing and Mansing, with their clothes and
mine tied into a bundle over their shoulders, got on the animals, and,
after a somewhat anxious passage, arrived safely on my side. We
encamped. My men mourned all night over the lost property. The next
morning I made fresh and unsuccessful attempts to recover the loads.
Unhappily they contained all my tinned provisions, and what little other
food I had, 800 rupees in silver, the greater part of my ammunition,
changes of clothing, shoes, my hurricane lantern, and sundry knives,
razors, etc.
The only thing we recovered was the wooden pack-saddle, which was washed
ashore some six hundred yards farther down.
Our situation can be summed up in a few words. We were now in the centre
of Tibet, with no food of any kind, no clothes to speak of, and no boots
or shoes, except those we wore, which were falling to pieces. What
little ammunition I had left could not be relied upon, owing to its
having been in water on several occasions. Around us we had nothing but
enemies--insignificant enemies, if you like, yet enemies after all.
I got some comfort in thinking that the water-tight cases with my
scientific instruments, notes, sketches, maps, and a quantity of gold
and silver money were saved. As far as I was concerned, I valued them
more than anything else I possessed.
We went on, hungry, worn out, with our feet lacerated, cheering one
another as best we could. We laughed at our troubles. We laughed at the
Tibetans and their comical ways. We laughed at everything and everybody,
until eventually we laughed at ourselves. But the days seemed long.
Though fasting gives you at first an acute pain in your inside, it does
not become unbearable until after several days' absolute want of food.
That is to say, if you are accustomed, as we were, to long intervals
between one meal and the next. When we got to our third day's fasting we
were keen enough for a meal. Perceiving black tents close to the
mountain-side, about four miles out of our course, we made for them with
famished haste. We purchased two bucketfuls of yak's milk, one of which
I drank there and then myself, the second being equally divided between
my two servants. That was all we could get. They would sell us nothing
else.
After this we moved forward again, making steady, and, if one allows for
the great elevation, comparatively rapid progress. We held our own
against all comers. We encountered pleasant people and unpleasant ones,
but, whether their manner was courteous or the reverse, we could nowhere
obtain food for love or money.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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