An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Poor Mansing and Chanden Sing, not having the same interest that I had
in my work to keep up their spirits, were now in a dreadful condition.
Cold, tired, and starved, the poor wretches had hardly strength left to
stand on their feet, the soles of which were badly cut and sore. It
really made my heart bleed to see these two brave men suffer as they did
for my sake. No word of complaint came from them; not once did their
lips utter a reproach.
"Never mind if we suffer or even die," said the poor fellows, when I
expressed my sympathy with them, "we will follow you as long as we have
strength to move. We will stand by you, no matter what happens."
I had to relieve Chanden Sing of his rifle, as he was no longer able to
carry it. I, too, felt languid as the days went by, and we got scarcely
any food. I cannot say that I experienced severe physical pain. This was
due, I think, to the fact that my exhaustion brought on fever. I had a
peculiar feeling in my head, as if my intellect, never too bright, had
now been altogether dulled. My hearing, too, became less acute. I felt
my strength slowly dying down like the flame of a lamp with no more oil
in it. The nervous excitement and strain alone kept me alive. I went on
walking mechanically.
We reached an encampment of some eighty black tents and a mud
guard-house. We were positively in a starved condition. It was utterly
impossible to proceed farther, owing to the wretched condition of my two
men. They begged to be given ponies to ride. Their feet were so sore
that, notwithstanding their anxiety to follow me, they could no more.
The natives received us kindly, and consented to sell me ponies,
clothes, and provisions. We encamped about two miles beyond the
settlement. During the evening several persons visited my tent, bringing
gifts of flour, butter, and _tsamba_, accompanied by _katas_, the veils
of friendship. I made a point of invariably giving the Tibetans, in
return for their gifts, silver money to an amount three or four times
the value of the articles they presented us with. They professed to be
very grateful. A man called Ando, who styled himself a Gourkha, but wore
the garb of the Tibetans, came to visit us in our tent, and promised to
bring several ponies for sale the next morning. He also undertook to
sell a sufficient quantity of food to enable us to reach Lhassa. To show
his good faith, he brought a portion of the supplies in the evening, and
said he would let us have the remainder the next morning.
We next had a visit from a Lama, who appeared civil and intelligent. He
presented us with butter and _chura_ (cheese). He had travelled as far
as Calcutta in India, and was then on his way from Gartok to Lhassa.
Having an excellent pony, he expected to arrive there in four or five
days. Other Lamas and men who came to see us stated that they had come
from Lhassa in four days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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