An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
It was half-past four in the afternoon, and therefore some little time
before sunset. There should be moonlight. I had on that day marched
eight miles. It must be remembered that at high elevations the effort of
walking eight miles would be as great as to walk twice as far at lower
altitudes. Though my feet were wounded and sore, I was not tired. Our
camp was at a height of 16,150 feet, an elevation higher than the
highest mountain in Europe. Doctor Wilson insisted on accompanying me on
my reconnoitring trip. Kachi Ram and a Rongba coolie also volunteered to
come. Bijesing, the Johari, after some persuasion, got on his feet to
accompany our little exploration party. Chanden Sing was left in charge
of the camp, with strict orders to punish severely any one who might
attempt to escape during my absence.
We set out, following up-stream the course of the Mangshan River boxed
in between high cliffs which finally met at the glacier at the foot of
the Mangshan Mountain, about three miles east-south-east of our camp. It
was very hard to walk over the large, slippery stones, where one's feet
constantly slipped and were jammed between rocks, straining and hurting
the ankles. Since I did not trust my demoralized followers, who seemed
on the verge of mutiny, I did not care to leave behind in camp the heavy
load of silver rupees (R. 800) sewn in my coat. I always carried that
sum on my person, as well as my rifle, two compasses (a prismatic and a
luminous), two aneroids, one half-chronometer and another watch, and
some thirty rifle cartridges. The combined weight of these articles was
considerable, and on this particular afternoon it was almost too much
for my strength. We travelled up and down the series of hillocks, and in
and out of the innumerable channels that centuries of melting snow and
ice had cut deep into the mass of loose stones. At the point where the
two ranges met there stood before us the magnificent pale-green
ice-terraces of the Mangshan glacier, surmounted by great snow-fields
rising to the summit of the mountain range. Clouds enveloped the higher
peaks. The clear ice showed vertical streaks, especially in the lower
strata, where it was granulated. The base, the sides, and top of the
exposed section were covered with a thick coat of snow. The Mangshan
River rose from this glacier.
We left the glacier (17,800 feet above sea-level), to the right, and,
turning sharply northward, began our ascent toward the pass. The snow we
struggled over was so soft and deep that we sank into it up to our
waists. Occasionally there was a change from snow to patches of loose
debris and rotten rock. The fatigue of walking on such a surface was
simply overpowering. Having climbed up half a dozen steps among the
loose, cutting stones, we would slide back almost to our original point
of departure, followed by a small avalanche of shifting material that
only stopped when it got to the foot of the mountain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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