An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
They cheerfully hastened to pack up the loads, and set forth with
unusual energy in the direction I had pointed out. We followed a course
parallel to the high, flat plateau on the other side of the stream. This
snow-covered plateau extended from south-west to north-east. Beyond it
to the north could be seen some high, snowy peaks--in all probability
the lofty summits south-east of Gartok. To our right we were flanked by
high, rugged mountains, with streams here and there dashing down their
sides. Six hours' brisk marching took us to a sheltered spot where a few
lichens and shrubs were growing. If we had suddenly descended into the
Black Forest of Germany or the Yosemite Valley with their gigantic
trees centuries old, our delight could not have been greater, yet the
tallest of these shrubs stood no higher than six or seven inches from
the ground, while the biggest piece of wood we collected was no larger
around than an ordinary pencil. With all possible haste all hands went
to work to root up these plants for fuel.
When night came the same number of hands were busy cooking and swiftly
ladling out such steaming food as was available from the different pots
to the mouths of the famished coolies. Happiness reigned in camp. All
recent hardships were forgotten.
A fresh surprise was awaiting us when we rose. Two Tibetans disguised as
beggars came to our camp. They pretended to be suffering from cold and
starvation. I gave orders that they should be properly fed and kindly
treated. On being cross-examined they confessed that they were spies
sent by the officer at Gyanema to find out whether a white man had
crossed the frontier, and whether we had seen him.
We had so many things to attend to in the morning, and it was so cold,
that washing had really become a nuisance. I, for my part, gave it up,
at least for the time. We were sunburnt, and we wore turbans and
snow-glasses, so the Tibetans departed under the impression that our
party consisted of a Hindoo doctor, his brother, and a caravan of
servants (none of whom had seen a white man), and that we were now on a
pilgrimage to the sacred Mansarowar Lake and Kelas Mount.
In the presence of the men we treated this as a great joke, but, all
the same, Wilson and I anxiously consulted as to our immediate plans.
Should we make a rapid march during the night over the mountain range to
our right, and strike east by the wilds, or should we face the Gyanema
leader and his soldiers?
We decided to meet them rather than go out of our way. I gave orders to
break camp at once.
CHAPTER V
WARNED BACK BY SOLDIERS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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