An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
My men, with heads uncovered, their faces turned toward the sacred peak,
were muttering prayers. With joined hands, which they slowly raised as
high as the forehead, they prayed fervently, and then went down on their
knees, with heads touching the ground. My brigand follower, who was
standing close by me, hurriedly whispered that I should join in the
prayers.
"You must keep friends with the gods," said the bandit; "misfortune will
attend you if you do not bow to Kelas. That is the home of a good god!"
And he pointed to the peak with the most devout air of conviction.
To please him, I saluted the mountain with great deference, and,
imitating the example of my men, placed a white stone on one of the
_Choktens_ or _Obos_ (stone pillars). Hundreds of these had been erected
at this place by devotees. These Obos, or rough pyramids of stones, were
to be found on the paths over high passes, near lakes, and at the source
of rivers. At no place had I seen so many as at Lama Chokten. Each
passer-by deposited a white stone on one of these Obos. This was
supposed to bring good fortune.
The guard-house itself, of rough stone, would in any country but Tibet
be recognized as better fitted for pigs than for human beings.
Having gone a mile or so further, as the sun was fast disappearing we
searched for a suitable spot to pitch our tents. There was no sign of
water, only the stony bed of a dried rivulet. We were discussing the
situation when we heard a faint sound of rushing water. It grew louder
and louder, and then we saw coming our way a stream of limpid snow-water
gradually creeping over a bed of stones. Evidently the snow of the
mountains, which had melted during the day, had only now reached the
spot where we stood. My brigand was greatly excited.
"Water flowing to you, sahib!" he exclaimed, with his arms outstretched.
"You will have great luck! Look! Look! You want water for your camp, and
a stream comes to you! Heaven blesses you. You must dip your fingers
into the water as soon as it comes up to you, and throw some drops over
your shoulders. Fortune will then attend you on your journey."
I readily fell in with this Tibetan superstition. We all dipped our
fingers and sprinkled the water over our backs. Wilson, however, who
took the matter quite seriously, said it was all nonsense, and would not
give in to such "childish superstitions."
In front of our camp was a great stretch of flat alluvial land, about
ten miles long and fourteen wide, which apparently had once been the bed
of a lake. With my telescope I could see at the foot of a small hill the
camping-ground of Karko. There were many tents. My men seemed reassured
when by their shape and color we made out the tents to be those of
Joharis from Milam, who came over to this place to trade with the
Tibetans. Beyond Karko to the north a stretch of water, the Gyanema
Lake, shone brilliantly, and beyond it could be seen comparatively low
hill ranges. In the distance more snowy peaks were visible.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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