An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
My prospects became gloomier than ever. Another march back toward the
cold and dreary pass by which I had entered Tibet!
"You are depressed, Mr. Landor," remarked the doctor.
I admitted the fact. Every step backward was to me like a stab in the
heart. My only wish was to push on at any cost, and it was only on
account of my good friend, the doctor, that I had reluctantly refrained
from making my way onward by force. My blood was boiling. The cowardice
of my men made them so contemptible in my eyes that I could not bear
even to look at them.
On this depressing march I walked alone ahead of my party. The rugged
way seemed short and easy. I found a suitable spot for our camp. Before
me and on every side stood high, snowy mountains. In front towered that
same Lumpiya Pass over which I had crossed into Tibet when my spirits
ran high and I had hopes of taking my entire expedition toward the
sacred city of Lhassa. I now hated the sight of those mountains.
Whether it is that storms come when one is depressed, or whether one
gets depressed when storms approach, I am not prepared to say. On this
occasion, when I was indeed very depressed, and before we had time to
pitch our tents, the wind, which had been high all through the
afternoon, increased tenfold. The clouds became black and threatening,
and snow soon fell in feathery flakes.
"What are you going to do?" inquired the doctor of me. "I think you had
better return to Garbyang, get fresh men, and make another start."
"No, doctor. I will die rather than continue this backward march. I have
resolved to start alone to-night. I am convinced that I shall have
better success. I shall find my way over the range."
"No, no, it is impossible, Mr. Landor!" cried the doctor, with tears in
his eyes. "That must mean death to any one attempting it."
I told him I was quite determined to go.
The poor doctor was dumfounded. He knew that it was quite useless to try
to dissuade me. I went into the tent to rearrange my baggage, making
the load I intended to carry on my back as light as possible. My
scientific instruments, money, and cartridges already made a good weight
to carry on my person.
While I was making preparations for my journey Kachi Ram entered the
tent. He looked perplexed.
"What are you doing, sir?" he inquired. "The doctor says you are going
to leave alone to-night, cross the mountain range, and go to Lhassa by
yourself."
"Yes; that is true."
"Oh, sir, the perils and dangers are too great! You cannot go."
"I know; but I am going to try."
"Oh, sir, then I will come with you."
"No, Kachi. You will suffer too much. Go back to your father and mother,
now that you have the opportunity."
"No, sir; where you go, I will go. Small men never suffer. If they do,
it does not matter. Only great men's sufferings are worth noticing. If
you suffer, I will suffer. I will come."
Kachi's philosophy touched me. He meant what he said. I decided to take
him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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