An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Now that everything seemed to be running smoothly, I made a painful
discovery. It was necessary for me to move rapidly. Imagine my surprise
when I found that we were out of provisions. Before leaving the larger
body of my expedition, I had given orders to my men to take food for ten
days. The doctor, who had been deputed to see to this, had assured me
that the loads contained quite enough to last us fully and above that
length of time. Now, for some unknown reason, we had only sufficient
food for one meagre meal. We only had a few grains of salt left.
"What have you done with it?" I inquired, angrily, as it immediately
flashed across my mind that my carriers had been playing foul. I had
ordered each man to take one pound of salt.
"Yes, sahib; but we forgot to take it," said the men, in a chorus.
[Illustration: BEHIND OUR BULWARKS]
After the hardships and fatigue we had undergone, and the anxiety and
difficulty of carrying on my work of surveying, photography, sketching,
and writing, under conditions of unusual discomfort and risk, it was
indeed a hard blow to me to see my plans spoiled. We were still three
or four days' journey from Mansarowar, where I expected to obtain fresh
supplies. Again I had the choice of giving up and returning into India
or of being captured by the Tibetan soldiers, whom I had so far
successfully avoided. Though not usually affected by physical pain, I
sometimes suffer under mental stress. I felt ill and depressed. To add
bodily discomfort to my moral sufferings, I slipped, while jumping in
the semi-darkness from stone to stone across the Gakkon River, and fell
flat into about four feet of ice-cold water. The wind was high at the
time. The thermometer, after dark, went down to 26 deg. While I was
sitting in my wet clothes and talking our situation over, I became so
cold and exhausted that I felt I was about to collapse altogether. High
fever set in, and I became almost delirious. With my teeth chattering
and my temperature at its highest, all my troubles seemed greater than
they were. Failure seemed inevitable, my position hopeless. A plan
suddenly flashed across my mind. Four of my men should go disguised,
two as traders and two as beggars, into the Takla fort (locally called
_Takla khar_ or _Taklakot_), and buy food from my enemies. We, in camp,
would remain hidden until they returned. I spoke to my followers, and,
after some natural reluctance, four Shokas undertook to perform the
daring duty. Discovery would mean to them the loss of their heads,
in all probability preceded by cruel tortures. Although these men
eventually betrayed me, I cannot help giving them credit for the pluck
and fidelity they showed on that particular occasion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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