An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
My fortified abode was comfortable enough during the morning when the
sun shone on it. Often when the rock had absorbed a good deal of heat,
it got so warm that we had to abandon it in the middle of the day, when
the thermometer registered as much as 120 deg., 122 deg., and even 124
deg. From 1 P.M. till ten o'clock at night a bitter wind blew from the
south-east and seemed to get right into our bones. So cold was this
wind that the temperature suddenly dropped down to 60 deg., and even
lower, the moment the sun disappeared behind the mountains, and
continued to fall as low as 40 deg., 34 deg., and 32 deg. during the
night. One night we had a terrific gale and a snow-storm. Such was the
force of the wind that our wall was blown down upon us as we slept under
its shelter. The hours we had hoped to rest had to be spent in repairing
the damage done.
On the following morning we were gathering nettles for our meal when we
heard the distant tinkling of fast-approaching horse-bells. We quickly
put out the fires, hid our things, and hastened behind our bulwarks. I
seized my rifle. Chanden Sing loaded the Martini. A Shoka, who was too
far off to reach our fortified abode in time, screened himself behind
some rocks. In the nick of time! Half a dozen soldiers, with matchlocks
to which were attached red flags, were cantering gayly up the hillside
only a few yards in front of us. They were undoubtedly searching for me.
They looked in every direction, but fortunately never turned their eyes
toward the castle walls that concealed us. Perhaps they were expecting
to see a large European tent in one of the valleys, and never dreamed
that we should be where we were. We covered them well with our rifles,
but we had no occasion to fire. They rode on. The sound of their
horse-bells grew fainter and fainter as they disappeared on the other
side of the pass. These horsemen were probably soldiers despatched by
the Tarjum to guard this track. They were now on their way back to their
master, satisfied that the Englishman was not to be found in that part
of the country.
We named that spot "Terror Camp," for many and horrible were the
experiences that befell us there. Another weary day dragged slowly to
its close, and no sign of the messengers' return. Two men volunteered to
go into Kardam, a settlement some miles off. There they would try to
obtain food from the Tibetans. One of them had a friend at that place.
He would try to buy from him sufficient provisions to enable us to go on
a few days longer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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