An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
Led by this man, we started up the creek. I was astonished at the
willingness with which the Shokas agreed to proceed. In a short time I
felt convinced that Nattoo was deliberately taking us to the spot I most
wished to avoid. On my remonstrating and stopping farther progress in
that direction, the Shokas mutinied, and, laying down their loads, tried
to escape. Chanden Sing quickly barred their way ahead in the narrow
creek. I prevented their escape from the opposite side. They had to
surrender. They were all severely punished there and then. On being
closely cross-examined, they confessed that they had made a plot to
hand me over to the Tibetan guard, in order to escape themselves the
horrors of torture by the Tibetans. This last act of treachery, coming
after what had happened during the night, and from the very men to whom
I had been so kind, was too much for me. I used a stick, which Chanden
Sing handed me, freely on their backs and legs--Nattoo receiving the
largest share of blows, because he was undoubtedly the leader of the
conspiracy.
On climbing to a high point of vantage I made another discovery. Besides
the guard we had to the north of us, both east and west our way was
barred by Tibetan soldiers. It was not possible to get on during the day
without being seen. I absolutely refused to go back south. I held a
council with my men, now apparently resigned to their fate. They agreed
to accompany me as far as the Maium Pass (on the road to Lhassa), which
we reckoned we could reach in fifteen to eighteen marches. They further
agreed to endeavor to obtain yaks and food for me, and I was then to
dismiss them.
From the summit of the hill I had climbed I had taken careful bearings.
At night, aided by my luminous compass, I led my men high up along the
mountain range at an average elevation of 1500 feet above the
Gyanema-Taklakot track.
The night was dark and stormy. We encountered much difficulty on our
journey forward, owing to the slippery ground. Where it was not slippery
we trod over troublesome loose stones. We could not see far ahead.
Though we well knew from the angle of the slope that we were travelling
along a precipice, we could not distinguish anything under us except a
very bright streak far, far down below--undoubtedly the river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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