An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
I had just repacked my instruments, and was lying flat in the sun, some
distance away from my men, when I thought I saw something move. Jumping
up, I caught sight of a stalwart Tibetan stealing along the ground only
a few yards away from me, with the object, no doubt, of seizing my
rifle. He was not quick enough. All he got was a good pounding with the
butt of my Mannlicher. I recognized him; he was one of the brigands we
had seen in the morning. They had followed and spied us all along.
Having got over his first surprise and begged for mercy, the bandit,
with an amusing air of assumed innocence, requested us to go and spend
the night in his tent with him and his friends. They would treat us
right royally, he said. Being well acquainted with the hospitality of
robbers, we declined the invitation. The brigand went away somewhat
shaken and disappointed. We continued our journey along the edge of the
Devil's Lake. Hundreds of hares sprang all around us. So numerous were
they that I killed several with my rifle, using bullet cartridges. There
were signs all along that at some previous epoch the level of the lake
must have been much higher than it is at present.
Marching during the day, we encountered many Tibetans, some of whom were
Dogpas, others Jogpas, both nomad bands of robbers. When they saw us
approaching they generally fled, driving their sheep and yaks in front
of them. We came upon two Tibetan women, very dirty. Their faces were
smeared with black ointment, as a protection for the skin and to prevent
its cracking in the high wind. They were dressed in long sheepskin
garments, worn out and filthy. The shaggy hair was so unwashed that it
emitted a sickening odor. I ordered them not to come too near us.
Later four Tibetans, who attempted to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of
his hand, received from him a battering they were not likely to forget.
After this we were left alone for the remainder of the day. In the
evening Chanden Sing fired at a black wolf which came close to camp. I
discovered, about one hundred feet above the lake-level, imbedded in the
mountain-side, a stratum of gigantic fossils, which, owing to their size
and weight, I was unable to dig out and carry away.
Feeling almost certain that we were being spied upon all the time by the
numerous Jogpas we had met, and knowing their favorite habit of
attacking strangers at night while asleep, we generally resorted to a
simple ruse. Before sunset we pretended to encamp, and having lighted a
fire to let them think that we had halted for the night, after dark
escaped, leaving the fire burning. Walking and stumbling for several
miles, we eventually found a spot high on the hillside, where we
considered ourselves safe. Snow fell heavily during the night, and as
usual we woke up with icicles hanging from our mustaches, eyelashes, and
hair. Otherwise we really felt happy and well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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