An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
On returning to Garbyang I found that the Tibetans had tried to set the
natives against me. Tibetan spies travelled daily between Taklakot and
Garbyang, in order to keep the Jong Pen informed of my movements. The
Jong Pen sent an impudent messenger one day to say that he had plenty
of soldiers guarding the Lippu Pass, and that he would kill us all if we
came. If he caught me alive he would cut off my head; my body, he said,
he would sew in skins and fling into the river. I sent a messenger back
to the Jong Pen to inform him that I was ready to start, and that I
would meet him on the Lippu Pass; that he had better beware, and get out
of my way. The messenger who brought him this news barely escaped with
his life. He returned to me, saying that the Jong Pen was preparing for
war, that he had gathered all his soldiers on the top of a narrow pass,
where they had piled up a great number of large rocks and smaller
ammunition to be rolled down upon us when we should be coming up the
mountain-side.
Having collected men enough, after much trouble, I one day unexpectedly
mustered them, and that same night made a sudden start. The Tibetans,
suspecting that I might be leaving that day, cut down the bridge over a
rapid and deep torrent forming the boundary between India and Nepal.
This inconvenienced me, as I had to find my way on our side of the
stream, which was very rugged. This gave us additional trouble. Some of
the precipices we had to cross were extremely dangerous.
I reached the highest village in the Himahlyas, a place called Kuti, at
an elevation of 12,920 feet. Here I hastily made my final preparations
for the last dash across the frontier. Every available Shoka had joined
my party, and no inducement brought more volunteers. I needed two extra
men. Two stray shepherds turned up half famished and naked, with long,
unkempt heads of hair, and merely a coral necklace and a silver bangle
by way of clothing. With these two men my little force was brought up to
thirty strong.
One of the two shepherds interested me. He was sulky. He seldom uttered
a word, and when he did, he never spoke pleasantly. He looked painfully
ill. Motionless, he would sometimes stare at a fixed point as if in a
trance. His features were peculiarly refined and regular, but his skin
had the ghastly, shiny, whitish tinge peculiar to lepers. I paid no
special attention to him at first, as I was busy with other matters; but
one day while on the march I examined him carefully, and discovered that
the poor fellow had indeed all the symptoms of that most terrible of all
diseases, leprosy. His distorted and contracted fingers, with the skin
sore at the joints, were a sad and certain proof. I examined his feet,
and found further evidence that the man was a leper.
"What is your name?" I inquired of him.
"Mansing," he said, dryly, becoming immediately again absorbed in one of
his dreamy trances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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