Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
The British colony is not a large one. Its head is, of course, our
Minister, Sir Conyngham Greene, in whose able hands British interests in
Roumania have recently been placed. Keen and active, he has already
rearranged our Consular service in Roumania, and placed the Legation on
the same footing as those of the other Powers. While every other
European nation owns a Legation house in Bucharest, we have none; and
while I was in the Roumanian capital he was a fellow-guest at the Hotel
du Boulevard. It is understood, however, that the Foreign Office—or the
Treasury—have recently been shamed into the necessity of buying a house,
and very soon Sir Conyngham will have a fitting residence, as the other
representatives of the Powers.
Nobody ever deigns to walk in Bucharest. Everybody takes cabs, therefore
the streets are filled with vehicular traffic till far into the night.
At evening, indeed, Bucharest is at her best. Smart restaurants, with
pretty, well-dressed women, cosy theatres, flash café-chantants, and
noisy garish cafés abound all over the town, while outside, notably at
the Villa Regala, in the centre of a park, smart dinners and suppers are
given.
The _jeunesse dorée_ are an effeminate and extravagant crowd. Gambling
permeates the whole of society, and large sums are lost and won every
evening. I know personally one member of the Roumanian Cabinet who
thinks nothing of losing or winning a couple or three thousand pounds
each week at cards. He plays every afternoon at the Club, and is always
open to play any comer for any stake proposed, no matter what it may be.
Bucharest is a typical capital of a wealthy, easy-going country. The
people are charitable, and spend freely—when they have it. The
shop-windows, where the most expensive table delicacies are displayed,
show the foreigner the Roumanians’ extravagance in eating, while the
dresses one sees on the giddy women-folk are as up to date as any that
one notices in the Champs Elysées, the Bois, or at the Opera. Yet amid
all this up-to-dateness the old horse-tram still survives and jogs
along, and the patient white oxen toil slowly through the streets,
dragging their heavy springless carts.
Unlike Sofia, or in Belgrade, peasants are seldom met with in the
streets of Bucharest. One may go a whole week without coming across a
woman in national costume, unless, of course, the market is specially
visited. I, however, met, in Bucharest, Mr. Harold Hartley, one of the
directors of the Earl’s Court Exhibition, and we made many pleasant
excursions into the country together. To the traveller from Western
Europe the city is highly interesting and full of curious types,
especially of the young elegant, whose present fashion, it seems, is to
shave only the front of his chin and cheeks and grow a beard all round,
very similar in cut to that of a monkey.
[Illustration: The Royal Palace: Bucharest.]
[Illustration: Boulevard Elisabeta: Bucharest.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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