Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
I dropped the subject, rather crestfallen. I wanted to be invited to his
house and to meet his wife and sister-in-law, both of whom were declared
to be very beautiful. Yet he seemed in no way inclined to so far extend
his hospitality. I spoke to Palok and urged him to use his power of
persuasion, with the result that two days later I received an invitation
from Pietro to call upon him at his house at three o’clock to take
coffee, and further, he added—
“If you really wish to bring your camera, you may. I have spoken to my
brother, and he will let you take a picture of his wife, providing you
give your undertaking not to make any copies for sale, or to show it
here to people in Skodra.”
I willingly gave the undertaking, and at the appointed hour, accompanied
by Palok, we rang at the big gate in a high white, prison-like wall that
enclosed my friend’s dwelling, and were admitted into the garden, in the
centre of which stood a great square house.
Pietro came forward to greet me, a picturesque figure in his Scutarine
dress, the flat fez with big tassel, the embroidered coat, baggy
trousers, and white stockings. The ground floor was devoted to stables,
but above we found ourselves in a large square apartment with divans.
Upon the floor were beautiful Eastern rugs. On one side was the big,
gaudily painted dowry-chest, and here and there small low tables. The
room, with its heavy hangings, was very cosy, and over everything was
the sweet odour of otto-of-rose. In one corner was a great brass
brazier, and upon a chiffonier were a few European knick-knacks,
evidently household treasures. The only picture on the wall was a small
oleograph of the Madonna.
A rush-bottomed chair was produced for me, while Pietro and Palok
squatted cross-legged upon the divans. Then the servant was sent to
inform the ladies of our arrival.
Presently both wife and sister-in-law entered, gorgeous in silk and
gold, the most striking costumes I have ever seen off the stage. White
gauze veils were wrapped about their heads and corsage, leaving only
their eyes visible; and thus attired they saluted me and, with Pietro
acting as interpreter, welcomed me.
Afterwards they retired, and at Pietro’s order reappeared without their
veils. The younger woman was indeed lovely, with a fair white skin,
beautiful soft lines of beauty, magnificent black eyes, and lips that
puckered into a sweet, modest smile when I involuntarily expressed my
surprise at her marvellous good looks. I had heard that Albanian ladies
were beautiful, but I certainly never expected to be presented to such a
type of feminine loveliness.
Over her bare chest hung strings of great gold coins, while across her
brow were rows of sequins. Her richly embroidered dress, the jewels in
her ears, the bangles upon her arms, all enhanced her great personal
beauty, while she stood before me, her face downcast in modesty—for
except her husband and his brother no man had ever beheld her unveiled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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