Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
At that hour, it being Ramadan, the Turk was feasting and taking his
ease, while opposite the _han_ where I lived a Turkish soldier would
come nightly and sing weird prayers under the window of the Governor of
the _vilayet_, that perfectly useless official, whose authority extends
only to the confines of the town itself, and who fears to exercise it
lest he should rouse the slumbering ire of those fierce tribes who live
in the Accursed Mountains above.
Many strange sights I witnessed and many strange things I heard in
Skodra.
Men, fierce mountaineers who, in some cases, bore across their
countenances marks of sword or gun-shot wounds, told me their
stories—exciting narratives of love, war, and the blood-feud. All were
Albanians, and believed Skodra to be the finest capital in the world.
England, because it carried on no political intrigue among them, like
Austria and Italy, they did not regard as a Power. Mine was a country
far away, I was told, and therefore perfectly harmless. Hardly anybody
had heard of London. Those who had, declared that it could not be so
large or so beautiful as Skodra.
The days I spent there were with the one object of obtaining, by some
means, permission from one or other of the mountain chieftains to allow
me to travel in the country.
Palok had promised to endeavour to arrange it for me, and so had Pietro,
but by their manner I saw that they considered any such attempt a piece
of sheer folly, and far too hazardous. They were too polite to tell me
so, but I read in their faces that they did not intend me to go, if it
were possible to prevent me.
Therefore surreptitiously I had recourse to my faithful friend of the
bazaar, Salko, himself a member of the fierce tribe of the Skreli, who
had more than once terrorised the town. When, through an interpreter, I
one evening explained my desire, he rubbed his chin doubtfully and
wagged his head. He would do his best, but it was dangerous—very
dangerous, he declared.
And yet, he went on, the thing might perhaps be managed. An Albanian of
the mountains, though he might be a brigand and annoyed the Turks, and
though he might shoot Turkish soldiers like dogs wherever met, was
nevertheless a man of his word. If I was promised safe escort, then I
might go into the mountains without even my revolver, for no harm would
come to me.
Yes; he would promise to see what he could do. But it was difficult, and
it would take time. In the mountains they had no great love of
foreigners.
To the coming Feast of the Madonna many men from the mountains would
arrive, and there would be opportunity to speak with them. No; he would
say nothing to Palok—if I so wished. Therefore I waited, and hoped.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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