Balkan Peninsula -- Description and travel; Eastern question (Balkan)
In Podgoritza, in Cettinje, in Skodra, and in Djakova I had heard
terrible stories of this fighting race, and of Vatt’s fierce hatred of
the Turks. Yet everyone had told me that, the chief having invited me, I
need have not a moment’s apprehension of my personal safety.
So I went forward, reassured, to meet my host.
Half an hour later I came face to face with real brigands—brigands who
looked like an illustration out of a boy’s story-book—the men who had so
often held up travellers and compelled the Turkish Government to pay
heavy ransoms.
They were about twenty, certainly the fiercest and most bloodthirsty
gang I have ever set my eyes upon. Dressed in the usual skin-tight white
woollen trousers with broad black bands running down the legs, a short
white jacket, also black-braided, the sleeveless woolly bolero of
mourning, hide shoes with uppers consisting of a network of string, and
small white skullcaps, each man carried in his belt a great
silver-mounted pistol of antique type and a silver-sheathed curved
knife, while around both shoulders were well-filled bandoliers, and in
the hand of each a rifle. Like Rok, the heads of all were shaved,
leaving a long tuft at the back in the mediæval Florentine style.
With one accord they all raised their rifles aloft and shouted me
welcome, whereupon one man stepped forward—a big, muscular fellow with
handsome face and proud gait—the great chief Vatt Marashi himself.
Attired very much as his followers, his dress was richer, the jacket
being ornamented with gold braid. The silver hilt of his pistol was
studded with coral and green stones, probably emeralds, but he carried
no rifle. Jauntily, and laughing merrily, he approached me and bent
until his forehead touched mine—the Skreli sign of welcome.
And all this in Europe in the twentieth century!
Was I dreaming? Was it real? I was the guest of actual brigands, those
men about whom I had read in story-books ever since those long-ago days
when the weekly _Boys of England_ formed my chief literature.
Vatt Marashi, holding my hand the while, addressed me. What he said was
interpreted into Italian by Palok as—
“You are welcome here to my country—very welcome. And you are
an Englishman, and have travelled so far to see us! It is
wonderful—wonderful! You live so far away—farther than Constantinople,
they say. Well, I cannot give you much here or make you very
comfortable—not so comfortable as you have been down in Skodra. But I
will do my best. Come—let us eat.”
I returned his greeting, whereupon the whole crowd of us walked along to
a spot where a cauldron was standing upon a wood fire, and out of it my
host, myself, and Palok had pieces of boiled chicken and rice, which had
specially been prepared for my coming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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