PAGE HIS MAJESTY KING PETER OF SERVIA _Frontispiece_ MAP OF THE AUTHOR’S ROUTE THROUGH THE NEAR EAST 16 PERO, MY MONTENEGRIN DRIVER 20 ALBANIANS IN CETTINJE 20 THE ROYAL PALACE, CETTINJE 24 PRINCIPAL STREET IN CETTINJE 24 HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE NICHOLAS OF MONTENEGRO 28 THE PETROLEUM TINS OF CETTINJE 32 THE MONASTERY, CETTINJE 32 MR. CHAS. DES GRAZ, CHARGÉ D’AFFAIRES AT CETTINJE 34 THE PIAZZA, RAGUSA 34 RYEKA, MONTENEGRO 42 ZABLIAK, MONTENEGRO 42 PALOK, MY COMPANION THROUGH THE SKRELI COUNTRY 44 IN SKODRA (TWO VIEWS) 48 MY FRIEND SALKO OUTSIDE HIS HOUSE IN SKODRA 54 PIETRO’S SISTER-IN-LAW UNVEILED BEFORE THE CAMERA 54 ROK, TRIBESMAN OF THE SKRELI 58 PIETRO LEKHA 58 THE MADONNA OF SKODRA 64 THE PROCESSION WITH AN ARMED GUARD 64 THE MIREDITI: AN ALARM! 66 THE MIREDITI AT PRAYER 66 MY ROAD IN NORTHERN ALBANIA 70 THE WAY TO THE SKRELI 70 VATT MARASHI, CHIEF OF THE SKRELI TRIBE 74 THE SKRELI AT HOME 76 AN ALBANIAN VILLAGE 76 AMONG THE SKRELI: LÛK AND HIS FRIENDS 80 MRIKA, THE WOMAN WHO CARRIED ON THE BLOOD-FEUD 84 MY BODYGUARD IN NORTHERN ALBANIA 90 BUNAQUELLE, BOSNIA 96 JAJACE, BOSNIA 96 SARAYEVO, BOSNIA 112 IN HERZEGOVINA 112 HIS EXCELLENCY NICHOLAS PACHITCH, PRIME MINISTER OF 120 SERVIA HIS EXCELLENCY DR. MILENKO VESNITCH, SERVIAN MINISTER 124 OF JUSTICE HIS EXCELLENCY COSTA STOYANOVITCH, SERVIAN MINISTER OF 126 COMMERCE THE ROYAL PALACE, BELGRADE: THE BALLROOM 130