Every two hours the ship is stopped and Professor Arrhénius takes samples of water at various depths; when the engine stops the rolling is still worse. We are overtaken by a snowstorm and darkness is complete. After twenty-four hours on a south-westerly course, which is taking us away from Tromsö, the _Virgo_ returns south-east, and the storm begins to subside. We see ships at a distance, and the temperature rises as we draw nearer to Norway. It was on the 22nd that we passed near Beren Island, which was hidden by the fog. A number of birds surrounded our ship which is again sailing fast. XIII My last Night on the _Virgo_ The storm has blown over. I recovered my appetite and my good humour, and the night of the 23rd-24th was a very pleasant one. For some time past I had seen no darkness, and this night was not without poetic surroundings. A few stars are already twinkling in the zenith, when at about ten o’clock the sun disappeared from the horizon leaving a long twilight which lasted until dawn. [Illustration: A LAPLANDERS’ CAMP.] The sky was tinted with purple hues forming an immense rainbow, stretching from west to east. Grey clouds of the weirdest forms travelled through space, and lent animation to a view which it would be difficult to paint. The full moon, which appeared as the sun set, shone brightly, casting her white light on the silvery waves. The disc was extremely large, and the outlines of the land were shown very distinctly. Alone on the bridge, I gave myself up to my dreams. The temperature having perceptibly risen, I experienced the greatest comfort in sailing thus in the direction of the land. My companions were hardly able to rouse me from my contemplation and induce me to go down and play cards in the dining-room, where a lamp was lit for the first time. The sea was as calm as a lake, and navigation was a pleasure in this calm after the storms we have endured. _August 24th._—It is dawn, the moon is waning and the day-star resumes possession of the scene. Birds still accompany us and whirl round the _Virgo_, the black smoke of which unrolls itself like a plume of feathers. We are approaching the Norwegian coast, and can see the cliffs. Vessels and craft of every description are moving to and fro. We are coming back to life; we feel that we are returning to civilization. The breakfast at nine o’clock is very animated. The weather is warm, and we are all preparing to make our entrance into Tromsö. At eleven o’clock we are at last in sight of the town, and by noon the _Virgo_ is berthed in the port opposite the _Fram_, which we had met at Dansk-Gatt on the 14th of August. XIV The Return We are at once surrounded by friends, and learn with pleasure that Nansen is a guest on board the small white yacht _Otaria_, anchored near the _Fram_, which she brought in tow from Hammerfest.