Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London during the Eighteenth Century; Vol. 2 (of 2): Including the Charities, Depravities, Dresses, and Amusements etc.Malcolm, James Peller
History
Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London during the Eighteenth Century; Vol. 2 (of 2): Including the Charities, Depravities, Dresses, and Amusements etc.
Malcolm, James Peller
London (England) -- Social life and customs -- 18th century
Some of the then and subsequent exuberances shall now be brought to
recollection. And first, the Head--this we have seen covered with
a _Cushion_, as it was termed, generally formed of horse-hair, and
something like a porter's knot set upon the ends; over this the hair
was combed strait, the sides curled, and the back turned up, and the
whole powdered; diminutive Caps of gauze, adorned with ribands, and
miniature Hats, generally of black silk trimmed, were _stuck_ on the
tower of hair with long pins. The Waist was covered by a long-bodied
Gown, drawn exceedingly close over stays laced still closer; the Hips
sometimes supported a Bell Hoop; the Shoulders alternately small Cloaks
and Cardinals, the former of muslin and silk, and the latter almost
always of black silk richly laced.
This description of Female dress altered by _degrees_ to the present
fashion: the Head insensibly lowered; the horse-hair gave place to
large natural curls spread over the face and ears; the Cap enlarged
to an enormous size, and the Bonnet swelled in proportion; Hoops were
entirely discontinued, except at Court; silks became unfashionable,
and printed calicoes and the finest white muslins were substituted,
and still hold their influence. The Ladies have at length, much to
their honour, thrown aside those hateful attempts to supply Nature's
deficiencies or omissions, the false breasts, pads, and bottoms; and
now appear in that native grace and proportion which distinguishes an
English-woman: the Hair, cleansed from all extraneous matter, shines
in beautiful lustre carelessly turned round the head in the manner
adopted by the most eminent Grecian sculptors; and the Form appears
through their snow-white draperies in that fascinating manner which
excludes the least thought of impropriety. Their Hats and Bonnets of
straw, chip, and beaver, are generally well-proportioned and handsome;
and their velvet Pelisses, Shawls, and silk Spencers, are contrived to
improve rather than injure the form.
But in the midst of this praise I must be permitted to make one
observation; and that is, some thoughtless females indulge in the
licence of freedom rather too far, and shew their persons in a manner
offensive to modesty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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