The Male dress changed almost insensibly from formality to ease. This was effected merely by altering the cut of the clothes: the materials are the same they were an hundred years past; the colours however are more grave. Deep blue, dark browns, mixtures, and black, are worn by the sedate and the gay, the young and the old: the former indeed sometimes appear in Coats _rather large_ for their persons; but they compensate for this oddity by stretching their Pantaloons almost to bursting, and wear something _that resembles_ the Waistcoat of a boy seven years old. The modern Hat is very convenient--a high flat crown and narrow brim, pressed down before and behind, and turned up at the sides. Square-toed Shoes have been revived; and half and whole Boots are, I believe, every thing but slept in. The modern Neckcloth should not be omitted, especially as it has undergone more ridicule than the rest of the dress in the aggregate; it is enough to say, the Neckcloth has been compared _to a towel tied under the chin_. The Hair was a long time dressed or frizzed high on the head, like a negro's wool, and perfectly whitened with powder, and alternately plaited and turned up or queued behind. The Powder-tax occurred, and thousands of heads became in an instant black and brown; and, as the Revolution in France _deserved_ imitation, the fierce Republican head of Brutus stared us full in the front, mounted upon the shoulders of _Ladies_ and Box-lobby Loungers composed of puppies rather than men. Since those days of horror Powder again makes its appearance with the hair cropped close, except above the forehead; there it is turned erect, in imitation of a--cock's-comb. And now, Fashion, I bid thee, in perfect good humour, heartily farewell! FOOTNOTES: [323:A] The Bishop of Durham, within his Diocese, has many of the privileges of a Lay Peer; and Dr. Talbot had then lately succeeded to that See. [338:A] See London Chronicle, vol. XI. p. 167, for 1762. [353:A] London Chronicle, Feb. 14, 1763. CHAP. IX. DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE TRACED FROM ITS ORIGIN TO ITS PRESENT IMPROVED STATE IN LONDON--LIGHTING AND IMPROVING OF STREETS--OBSTRUCTIONS IN THEM--ORNAMENTS, &C. &C.