during 1917 and 1918, and although some reaction will doubtless occur,
there seems little doubt that chrome sole leather has taken a definite
and permanent leap forward. Once the general public fully appreciate its
qualities of waterproofness and durability its future will be assured.
On the whole the position and prospects of chrome tanning are good. The
chrome tannages are making headway in all directions, and undoubtedly
threaten the existence of many of the older processes of vegetable
tanning.
REFERENCES.
Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," pp. 198-220.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 210, 355.
Bennett, _J.S.L.T.C._, 1917, 176.
Stiasny, _Collegium_, 1908, 117.
SECTION II.--GENERAL METHODS OF CHROME LEATHER MANUFACTURE
It has been previously pointed out that the chrome tannage is an "empty"
one; the primary principle in the wet work of goods for chrome leather
is to avoid anything which will make this feature more obvious. In the
vegetable tannages relatively larger amounts of the tanning agents are
used, and these fill the interfibrillar spaces; indeed, as we have seen
(Part I., Sections III., V. and VI.), effort is made to increase these
spaces and to fill them to their maximum capacity, thus yielding a
leather of which 50 per cent. is the tanning agent. In chrome tanning,
however, the tanning agent may only be approximately 5 per cent. of the
finished leather, so that any trouble taken to split the hide fibres or
to dissolve hide substance is usually not only superfluous, but also
calculated to enhance the "emptiness." The governing principle of all
the preparatory processes for chrome tannage is therefore the
conservation of hide substance, and this principle determines the
modifications of the processes of soaking, liming, and deliming, which
are in vogue. Now, in most of these processes there is usually some loss
of hide substance, and it is the particular problem of chrome tanning to
reduce this loss to a minimum in each stage. Whether the loss of hide
substance be due to alkaline or fermentive hydrolysis, or to solation of
the hide gel, the effect is increased by swelling, and in the wet-work
for chrome, therefore, any variations in the degree of swelling are
objectionable. The preparatory processes should be carried out with as
little change as possible in the volume and elasticity of the pelt.
Whether also the loss of hide be due to hydrolysis or solation, it is
increased by time, hence short processes are (other things being equal)
much to be preferred. Fermentive hydrolysis is minimized by cleanliness,
alkaline hydrolysis by avoiding strongly alkaline liquors, and solation
of collagen is reduced by both, and also by avoiding, as far as
possible, the presence of calcium and ammonium salts.
Soaking should be quick and clean. The use of the paddle or drum gives
the greatest efficiency and also assists in procuring the softness so
essential to the bulk of chrome leathers.
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