Liming chrome leather satisfactorily is almost an impossible ideal.
Every conceivable arrangement has some objection to it. The time of the
process may be shortened either by the use of sulphide or by the use of
mellow or old limes. To shorten time by the use of sodium sulphide
unfortunately involves the employment of more alkali than is desirable,
with a consequent plumping effect and tendency to harshness. If
sufficient sulphide be used to make the liming very short, then the
grease is not "killed" (saponified or emulsified). If the harshness and
alkalinity be removed by using also an excess of calcium chloride, then
the lyotrope influence of this substance enhances the solation of the
hide gel. On the other hand the use of old lime liquors avoids the
plumping effect, but increases considerably the bacterial activity, and
the bacterial enzymes produce both hydrolysis and solation of the pelt.
In practice what is generally done is to shorten time by both methods
and so to admit both disadvantages to a limited extent. This is
theoretically more sound than would appear, for in mellow limes sulphide
has less plumping power but is just as strong a depilatant; whilst, on
the other hand, a mellow liming shortened by sulphide is less
objectionable as there is some evidence that bacterial activity is
relatively less in the first few days. Hence a mellow sulphide liming of
7-10 days is very common in practice, but sometimes a 3-4 days' process
with more sulphide is also found satisfactory.
It would seem probable that the real solution of the problem would be
found by a different process altogether. In this connection it is
interesting to note that a Continental proposal to unhair by enzyme
action only has been found most practicable with goods for chrome, and,
in the author's opinion, some development on these lines, in which a
lipolytic enzyme is used in addition to a proteolytic, might solve the
difficulty, and give a rapid depilation which dispenses with liming,
plumping and deliming with the consequent loss of valuable hide
substance.
In the usual short, mellow, sulphide liming it is clear that there is
not much advantage in a "round" or "set" of pits. Hence the one-pit
system is popular on account of the less labour involved.
The above remarks are less applicable in the case of chrome sole
leather. In this case weight is a great consideration and plumping is
necessary. In such leather the chrome tannage is supplemented by the use
of waxes, which fill up the spaces between the fibres and give solidity
and waterproofness to the finished article. With this leather an
ordinary sole leather liming in sharp liquors is not unsuitable,
handling the goods from "mellow to fresh," but there is, on the whole, a
tendency to shorten the process to about a week by using more sulphide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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