In finishing box calf the neutralization should be thorough, or the acid
may cause trouble in dyeing and fat liquoring. Imperfect removal of
excess chrome salts may cause the formation of "chrome soaps" which are
very difficult to remove; the goods should therefore be well washed.
There are two general types of treatment before blacking. In one, the
skins are first well washed with water at 110° F., neutralized with
about 3 per cent. borax, and well washed again. Striking follows and is
usually very thorough, partly because it assists in producing evenly the
characteristic box grain, and partly because the finished leather is
sold by the square foot. Machine striking is now almost universal, and
may be done several times at different stages in the drying. When half
dry ("sammed") the skins are shaved by machine and, at this stage
usually, weighed. Dyeing and fat liquoring then follows. In the other
type, the goods are merely washed, and then struck out, sammed, shaved
and weighed. The skins are then neutralized, washed and immediately dyed
and fat liquored. The advantages of this latter course are that the
goods remain in the drum for the last four processes, which is
economical of labour, and also that by neutralizing immediately before
dyeing and fat liquoring there is less danger of a further diffusion of
acid.
In dyeing logwood extract is largely used, occasionally a little fustic
is used also, and by using a "striker" of iron and copper sulphates a
good black is obtained. Logwood is often used also in conjunction with
coal-tar dyestuffs. The goods are first warmed in the drum up to 140°
F., and the dyestuff solution gradually run into the drum whilst it is
revolving. Up to 3/4 hour may be necessary to exhaust the bath, the
goods being constantly drummed. The fat liquor is then run in similarly,
and the drumming continued until the grease is all absorbed by the
leather, which may take another hour. The skins are horsed till next
day, during which time the grease penetrates more completely.
The skins are now dried out, sometimes by suspending from the hind
shanks and sometimes by nailing on boards or wooden frames. They are
damped back for staking by leaving for 1-1/2 to 2 days in moist sawdust.
After staking they are dried strained in a "stove" at about 105° F.
In finishing off, the grain is "cleared" by sponging with 10 per cent.
lactic acid, and seasoned with a mixture of milk, blood and black
dyestuff. When dry on the surface the skins are glazed by machine, and
grained two ways--neck to butt and belly to belly. They are usually
reseasoned, dried out, reglazed, regrained, lightly oiled with mineral
oil, and finally trimmed. These various operations are fairly typical,
but there is obviously ample scope for divergence. Thus one may fat
liquor before dyeing, and the skins may be staked before drying out, and
may be re-staked after glazing.
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