To wet back for dyeing and finishing the skins are drawn through warm
water and then drummed in water at 95° F. for 15 minutes to wet evenly
and thoroughly. This liquor, which contains much of the tawing material,
is run off and replaced by the dye solution, _e.g._ fustic or turmeric,
with which the goods are drummed for half an hour. Iron, chrome or
copper salts may be used for saddening. After this "bottom" colour is
obtained, a coal tar colour is added for "topping" and the drumming
continued until the required shade is obtained. The excess liquor is now
run off, and the materials lost in soaking are replaced by drumming
further with egg yolk and salt for 15 minutes. This is known as
"re-egging." Blacks are obtained with logwood and iron. After
re-egging, the skins are dried out and staked. They are "seasoned" with
a weak emulsion of soap and oil, dried, oiled lightly with linseed oil,
ironed, re-oiled and finally brushed. Whites are undyed, and 10 lbs.
French chalk per 100 skins is used in re-egging.
"Calf kid" is a once popular but now obsolete upper leather made by
tawing calfskins. The skins were well plumped in limes, delimed by
washing and drenching, tawed much as for glove kid, split, dried out
rapidly, staked and aged. They were finished dull and black with soap
and wax.
The various white leathers used for belts, laces, whip lashes, aprons,
covers for stoppered bottles, etc., are very usually made with an alum
tannage. Alum, salt and flour only are used. Whitening is also mixed in
and acts as neutralizing agent as well as pigment dye.
Wool rugs are manufactured from suitable sheepskins by an alum tannage.
They are first well cleaned, using soap on wool and flesh. They are next
degreased by painting with fuller's earth paste and drying. They are
tawed by painting the flesh with a strong solution of alum and salt, or
even by rubbing on the solid salts. They are dried out, aged and sorted
for suitable colours. The dyeing is rather difficult, as many artificial
dyestuffs are of no use. It is usual to bleach the skins first in a weak
solution of bleaching powder, and afterwards to dye with infusions of
the dyewoods, _e.g._ logwood, fustic, sandalwood, terra japonica,
quercitron bark, turmeric, indigo, etc. Vat dyeing is usual. After
dyeing, retanning with alum and salt is necessary, on account of the
loss of these in bleaching and dyeing. Rugs are usually finished black,
white, grey, brown, walnut, crimson, blue or green.
REFERENCES.
Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," pp. 184, 236.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 239, 371.
SECTION II.--FAT TANNAGES
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