Light-leather goods are usually drenched after puering. They are also
often split green after the wet work. Sheepskins thus yield "skivers"
(the grain split), whilst the flesh split is often given an oil tannage
(see Part IV., Section III.). The greasy nature of sheep and seal skins
necessitates the processes of "degreasing." In the case of sealskins
this is done largely before liming, but with sheepskins either after
being struck through with tan, or after tannage is complete. Sheepskins
are often preserved in the pelt by pickling with sulphuric acid and
salt, which process forms a temporary leather. The fibres of the pelt
are dried in a separate condition, but the adsorption is easily
reversible and the pelts may be "depickled" by weak alkalies and
afterwards given an ordinary vegetable tannage.
In the vegetable tannage of skins for light leathers, the same
theoretical considerations have force as in the heavy-leather section,
but the former has its own rather special requirements and aims.
Generally speaking, a softer and more flexible leather is required, but
these qualities must not be imparted by stuffing with grease as in the
currying of dressing leather, because a bright and grease-free result is
usually required. Hence it is important that a sweet mellow tannage be
given. The durability of the leather is also a primary consideration for
goods intended for bookbinding, upholstery, etc., and the tannage must
be arranged to impart this quality and avoid anything tending to cause
the perishing of the fibre. Thus oak bark is a popular tanning material,
and sulphuric acid very definitely avoided. The tannage must be fast,
and take the dyestuffs well, and for the production of light shades of
colour in dyeing must be a light-coloured tannage. All these qualities
are imparted by sumach, which also fits in excellently with the other
general requirements, such as softness, brightness and durability.
Hence sumach is the principal light-leather tanning material, but the
tendency is to employ other materials--oak bark, myrabs, and chestnut
extract--to do much of the intermediate tanning, so that the expensive
and useful sumach may be used for setting the colour and grain at the
commencement, and for brightening, bleaching and mordanting the leather
at the end of the tanning process. Weight is generally no consideration,
but area is often a definite aim, partly because some goods are sold by
area and partly because the striking out, setting out and similar
operations improve the quality of the leather by giving evenness of
finish. Leather well struck out, moreover, is less liable to go out of
shape. As the grain pattern is so important in the finished leather,
appropriate care must be taken during tannage. If a smooth or a fine
grain finish is wanted, for example, the goods must not be allowed to
get wrinkled, creased, doubled or unduly bent to and fro during the
tanning. For such goods, suspension, careful handling and even the "bag
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account