tannage" may be desirable, whilst for coarser and larger grains paddles
or drums may be more extensively used.
Amongst the finishing processes dyeing holds an important position. The
nature of the process has many points of similarity with that of
tanning. The great specific surface of pelt is probably more enhanced
than otherwise during tannage, at any rate with light leathers, owing to
the isolation of fibres, and consequently leather is as liable as pelt
to exhibit adsorption. The dyestuffs, on the other hand, are substances
very easily adsorbed. Some (like eosin and methylene blue) are
crystalloids, some (like fuchsin and methyl violet) are semi-colloids,
whilst others (like Congo red and night blue) are undoubted colloids
forming sols (usually emulsoid) with water as dispersion medium. The
crystalloids and semi-colloids may also be obtained in colloidal
solution, sometimes being so changed on the mere addition of salts to
the solution. In addition, the pelt has been mordanted with tannin. If,
however, leather has been kept long in the rough-tanned or "crust"
state, this may not be so effective, owing probably to the secondary
changes in tanning (Part I., Section III.), but such leathers are
usually "retanned" or prepared for dyeing by sumaching (which process
also incidentally bleaches). The tannin mordant assists materially in
the fixation of the dyes. In the case of basic dyestuffs, lakes also are
formed, _i.e._ there is a mutual precipitation of oppositely charged
colloids (+dye, -tannin). The dyeing of leather is thus a case of
colloid reactions even more complicated than that of tanning.
Another finishing operation typical of the light leathers is "graining"
or "boarding." In this the skins after dyeing and drying are worked by a
board which is covered by cork, rubber, perforated tin or other
material, and so grips or "bites" the leather. The object of "graining"
is to work up the grain pattern by pushing or pulling a fold on the skin
with the board. The nature of the grain varies with the thickness and
the hardness of the skin, with the amount of pressure applied, with the
nature of the board, with the direction of the boarding and with the
total number of directions boarded. There is thus infinite scope for
variety of finish, and hence arise bold grain, fine grain, hard grain,
straight grain, cross grain, long grain, etc. The operation requires
considerable skill and experience. In the case of skins with little
natural grain (such as sheepskin) embossing and printing machines
impress the desired pattern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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