In seasoning, a dressing is applied containing essentially albumins and
emulsified fats, _e.g._ egg albumin and milk. Colouring matters are also
often added to intensify or modify the shade. After seasoning the goods
are usually "glazed" by a machine which rubs the seasoned grain with
considerable pressure, by a glass or hardwood tool, and so produces a
high gloss, for which the seasoning is very largely a preparation. Light
leathers are very lightly oiled with linseed or mineral oil.
REFERENCES.
Procter, "Principles of Leather Manufacture," pp. 220, 394.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," pp. 36-41, 55, 85-90, 92-112,
312, 332.
Wood, "Puering, Bating and Drenching of Skins."
Lamb, "Leather Dyeing and Finishing."
SECTION II.--GOATSKINS
Goatskins are amongst the most valued raw material for the manufacture
of light leather. The leather obtained from them is of the very finest
quality in respect to durability and adaptability to the principal
purposes in view. The texture of the fibres in goatskin is exceedingly
compact and very strong, whilst the grain exhibits naturally a
characteristic pattern which renders it most suitable for a grained
finish. Hence for purposes like upholstery, bookbinding, slippers, it
forms almost an ideal material. The tanning and finishing of goatskins
into "morocco leather" may indeed be taken as a quite typical example of
light leather manufacture.
The skins are obtained from all quarters of the globe where goats exist,
and the excellent quality of the leather produced has created a demand
which is greater than the supply. This is due not only to the demand for
morocco leather, but also to the popularity of the goatskin chrome upper
leathers such as "glacé kid" (see Part III., Section IV.). The large
American trade in the latter has produced the saying that wherever there
is a goat there is an American waiting for it to die! The European
supply of skins is somewhat limited. They are obtained from the Balkans
and Bavaria, in which case they are small, fine-grained and plump skins.
The Swiss goatskins are larger, and have also a fine grain; they are
well grown and well flayed. Scandinavian skins have a poor reputation,
being very flat. The African supply is important; Abyssinian skins are
exceedingly compact and tough, and are very suitable for "bold grain"
finishes. The Cape skins are particularly large, strong and thick, but
their quality is often impaired by the cure, the skins being flint-dry,
and, like hides so cured, prone to unsoundness. Large quantities of
goatskins also come from the East. Many of these are imported in a
tanned state (E.I. Goat). These skins are tanned with turwar bark, which
contains a catechol tannin. They are also heavily oiled with sesame oil,
and need degreasing. The tannage is also stripped as far as practicable,
and the skins retanned with sumach before finishing. They make good
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