The tannage of sealskins depends upon the size of the skins, the purpose
for which they are intended, and whether they have been split or not in
the limed state. The largest and coarsest skins intended for boot
uppers, and those which have been heavily scratched on the grain and are
only suitable for enamels, are given a tannage which may last about 5
weeks. The liquors are made from oak bark and mimosa bark, and are made
up to 35° with gambier and possibly myrabolans extract. For fancy work
also heavy skins are used, but a softer tannage is needed. If for blacks
the tannage is with gambier and chestnut extract. Two sets of handlers
are given (10°-15° and 15°-20°), using only gambier in the green sets.
They are well sumached after tanning to bleach and to mordant. If for
colours, only sumach and oak bark are employed. The skins are first
paddled for 3-4 days in sumach liquors, in which they are coloured
through. The liquors may be warmed; this quickens the tannage and also
leaches the sumach. The skins are then split, and the grains pass
through a handler set with liquors made from oak bark (8°-24°). The
skins are in this set for 3 weeks, in the first half of which they are
very frequently handled. They are finished off by paddling for 1 or 2
days in a fresh liquor containing much sumach, which mordants the skins
and bleaches the bark tannage. The flesh splits are given a drum tannage
in chestnut and quebracho extracts. If small skins are being tanned for
bookbinding purposes, sumach only is employed, and usually the tannage
is entirely in paddles.
In finishing many types of grain may be obtained, in blacks and in
colours. The finishing of "black levant" may, however, be selected as a
typical case. The skins are soaked back, tempered, and either split or
shaved, according to their substance and the size of grain wanted. The
thin skins of course give the fine grains. Mixed tannages need scouring
and possibly sumaching. The skins are then oiled up with linseed oil,
sammed, set out and blacked. In this last operation the grain is brushed
over with a solution of logwood and ammonia, and afterwards with the
iron mordant which often contains glue. They are next hung up for a
while and then "wet grained" in four directions--belly to belly, shank
to shank, across, and neck to butt. After hanging up in a hot stove to
set the grain, they are cooled, fluffed on the flesh, and seasoned on
the grain with a solution of milk and blood. A little black dyestuff may
be added to the season. The season is well brushed in, the skins dried
somewhat, and then glazed. They are then grained four ways again as
above, dried out in the stove, and lightly oiled with warm linseed oil
on the grain.
REFERENCE.
Bennett, "Manufacture of Leather," 40, 56, 90, 112, 206, 251, 312,
346, 383.
SECTION IV.--SHEEPSKINS
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