The most numerous class of skins for light leathers is from the common
sheep. These skins have particular value inasmuch as they include the
wool as well as the pelt. This wool, which is actually the most valuable
part of the sheep's skin, is the raw material of our woollen industries,
and is one of the most important of animal proteids. We have, therefore,
in this section to consider this dual value of sheepskins, the proteid
of the epidermis (wool), and the proteid of the dermis (pelt); one the
raw material of the woollen industry, the other the principal raw
material of the light leather trade. The first problem is to separate
the two proteids. With other skins and hides the ordinary liming
processes were sufficient and appropriate, but in the case of sheepskins
the method is unsuitable, because the exposure of the wool to the action
of caustic lime and possibly other alkalies would seriously impair its
quality and reduce its commercial value. Hence this separation of wool
from pelt is usually quite a separate business, viz. that of the
"fellmonger," whose occupation it is to collect the sheepskins from
butchers and farmers, to separate the two important constituent
proteids, and to hand the wool in one direction to the "wool stapler,"
who sorts it according to quality, and to hand the pelt in another
direction to the light leather tanner, who tans and finishes the pelt to
fit it for light upper work, fancy goods, etc.
In the first instance, therefore, we have to consider the work of the
fellmonger, the separation of wool and pelt. In this work the wool
receives first consideration, and the raw material of the fellmonger is
usually classified accordingly into "long wools," "short wools," and
"mountain breeds." The skins vary very largely in quality of wool and in
quality of pelt, being influenced very strongly by the conditions under
which the sheep lived, and by the precise breed of animal from which the
skin has been taken. As in the case of hides (Part I., Section I.),
animals exposed to extremes of weather develop the best pelts, whereas
those sheep which have been carefully bred and reared for the sake of
their wool yield a thin and poor class of pelt. In Britain, and more
especially in England, are reared the finest and most valuable sheep.
This is evident from the prices paid for them by foreigners and colonial
breeders when seeking new blood for their flocks and fresh stock for
their lands. As much as 1000 guineas have been paid by an Argentine firm
for a single Lincoln ram.
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