We arrived here at nine this morning, and have the great Muir Glacier before us. It is about two miles wide, two or three hundred feet high, and several hundred miles long. Every quarter of an hour or so we hear a loud crack, followed by a noise like the discharge of a gun, then a rumbling like thunder, and a big piece of ice, as large as a house, and, sometimes, as a church, falls into the water, causing the great steamer to rock. Word was passed for us to get into boats for an excursion onto the glacier. We were cautioned to be prudent and not to wander too far, and were told the story of a young Methodist clergyman, who went out of sight of his companions and was never after seen or heard of. It fell to my lot to escort a lady who, accompanied by her maid, wished to go on the glacier. A glacier may be said to be a river of ice, formed on the mountains and forced downwards, travelling the same as water, only slower. This one moves at the rate of about forty feet a day, much faster than they do in the Alps. Those at Chamouny, for instance, make only a foot or two a day. Our party landed, and for some distance had the use of a plank walk. From various parts of this we had fine views of the front of the glacier, large pieces of which were frequently falling into the water, making a great noise. We then, after much rough walking over stones and ice, passed up to the main body of the glacier. The ice is forced up into hillocks and ranges, wet, slippery, and difficult to travel on. Mrs. B. tripped along lightly and safely, but not so her maid, whose shoes were treacherous, and twice she came to grief, but no harm was done. I had on arctic overshoes with corrugated soles, which served me well, for I did not slip once. For an hour or two we wandered about, admiring the ice, the views, the numerous small streams of clear water formed by melted ice, and then returned to our quarters on board. At 7 P.M. the stately vessel steamed around near the front of the glacier, when, as if to give us a parting salute, an immense mass of ice, as big as a church, fell into the water with a great noise. The passengers cheered, and we went on our course, passing numerous ice islands. The day was perfect, as the preceding ones had been. CHAPTER XII. SITKA. SITKA, July 11, 1892. At six o'clock this morning we arrived here. The weather was warm, tempered by a cool breeze. Not a cloud was in the sky. This is a small harbor, with many islands in sight. From the deck of the steamer we could see the town, and on top of a hill a large wooden edifice, where the Russian governor-general formerly resided. It is vacant now, and in a dilapidated condition. We went ashore, and saw many Indians sitting on the walks or by the side of the roads. They were dressed nicely, and were better looking than any I ever saw before. They had the usual supply of baskets and curios for sale.