Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
Saturday, July 9. Morning. Cold, cloudy, rough--head almost beginning
to feel uncomfortable, the boat is tossing so much. A teacher comes
aboard with an inflamed hand which I fix; a few questions, the mail
bag, and we are off again. Enter a slough where it is less rough and
warmer. Later the sun will probably come out again. This evening we
shall be at Old Hamilton and then a new anxiety--how to get to St.
Michael.
Just had a little walk over the roof--my roof, for the other two
passengers prefer to sleep in the gassy, dingy room below, though how
they can stand it is beyond my medical ken. It is four short steps
long, or five half steps in an oblique direction.
Every object in distance appears magnified all along the river for
many days now. An old snag will look like a boat or a man, hills look
higher, a boat looks much more pretentious than she proves to be on
meeting.
Firs and spruce have now completely disappeared, also forests of birch,
etc., are reduced to brush both on flats and lower parts of hills.
Very large portion of the hills in distance just greenish with grass
and lichens, not even a brush.
9.45 a. m. Meet the _Matanuska_ bound upward. Looked from distance like
an ocean steamer; from near, just a lumbering, moderate-sized river
boat with a barge in front. But a whole lot better than ours.
The scenery has become monotonous. The gray river, although only one
of the "mouths," is broad, and the country is all low. Nothing but
bushy or grassy cut banks on the right, and mud flats, "smoking" under
the wind, to low banks on left. It is a little warmer and the warm sun
shows itself occasionally, but I still need the wrapping of a double
blanket. The wind luckily is with us and the waves not too bad.
Noon. Passing "Fish village"; a few huts and tents.
No "camps" here outside the few villages; just an endless dreary waste
and water.
New Hamilton--a few native huts only now--no whites.
Reach Old Hamilton--about a dozen houses with a warehouse, a store of
the Northern Commercial Co., and a nice looking but now unoccupied
school.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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