Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
We met here a boat from St. Michael with Mr. Frank P. Williams, the
well-known postmaster and trader of St. Michael, who comes for the
two men, my fellow passengers. We get acquainted and, to escape the
gases of the _Agnes_, I go with them. The boat is heavier and free
from fumes, though without accommodation. At about 7 p. m. we arrive
at Kotlik, at the mouth of the river--an abandoned wireless station,
a store, and four tents of natives. But the old wireless building,
now the storekeeper's house, is the dwelling place of a clean white
man, Mr. Backlund, who is now "outside," but with whom Mr. Williams
is in some partnership; so we occupy the building. Outside the wind
has risen to half a gale and there are squalls of rain and drizzle.
The _Agnes_ has to "tie to," as she would be swamped in the open. My
boxes and bedding, which were on the roof of the _Agnes_, are soaked,
though the contents will be dry. So both boats are fastened to a little
"dock," and we soon have fire in the stove, supper, and then--it is 11
p. m.--a bed, not overclean, somewhat smelly, but a bed and free from
mosquitoes, rain, wind, and cold.
July 10. Up at 6.30. Outside a storm and rain--just like one of the
three-day northeasters with us, and cool. Both boats were to leave, but
are unable to do so. I find that Mr. Williams's tug will come back here
and go to St. Michael on the 13th, so arrange with Mr. Williams to take
me and leave the _Agnes_ for good. This partly because I learn of two
graveyards near, one 1½, the other 4½ miles distant.
After lunch, rain for a while ceasing, I set out for the nearer burial
place. This is already a tundra country--treeless and bush-less flats
overgrown with a thick coat of moss, into which feet bury themselves
as in a cushion, and dotted with innumerable swampy depressions with
high swamp grass. Walking over all this is very difficult--lucky I have
rubber boots. Even so, it is no easy matter, except where a little
native trail is encountered.
The graveyard, belonging to the now abandoned little village above
Kotlik, consists of only about half a dozen adult graves. These consist
of boxes of heavy lumber laid on a base raised above the ground
level, and covered with other heavy boards. Some of the burials are
quite recent. Open three older ones. In two the remains are too fresh
yet, but from one secure a good female skeleton, which I pack in a
practically new heavy pail, thrown out probably on the occasion of the
last funeral. Then back, farther out, to avoid notice, through swamps
and over moss, and with a recurring wind-driven drizzle against which
my umbrella is but a weak protection.
Reach home quite wet and a bit tired. Have to undress and, wrapped in a
blanket, dry my clothes and underwear about the stove.
Nothing further this day and evening--just wind and heavy low clouds
and rain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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