Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
Tuesday, July 13. Rise a little after 6. Eye still sore after Sunday's
gnat and sweat and dirt; must use boric acid frequently. An Eskimo
actually said yesterday it was a sickness from touching the bones. A
little breakfast--have no more salmon strips, so just cereal, canned
plums, and coffee. And then with the help of two young Eskimo carry my
spoils and baggage on to the tug, which has come for me. By about 7
start. Good-by Kotlik, what little there is of it.
At 9 arrive at Mr. Williams's reindeer camp farther up the coast. There
are five tents and two small log houses of natives--the herders with
their families, dogs, and fish racks; and three whites, Mr. Williams,
owner of the boat and of most of the herd of about 8,000 animals;
Mr. Palmer, of the United States Biological Survey; and a Dane, Mr.
Posielt, here for the Biological Survey of Canada. All are already at
the corral some distance over the hill, branding, counting, etc., the
great reindeer herd, which belong to several owners.
A short walk along the shore brings me in sight of the herd. The
animals can be heard grunting a good distance off. The herd is so large
and so compact that it looks like a forest of horns. The animals keep
on moving in streams, but remain in the herd. They go to the shore to
drink some of the salty water, instead of salt. All is of interest,
even though the branding, the cutting off of big slices from the ears,
and castration, is rather cruel.
At lunch, for the first time, reindeer meat, a select steak. It is
tender and decidedly good. Has no special flavor and is poor in fat,
but tender and good.
Afternoon, once more to the corral, and then various things, including
a photograph of a little impromptu native group.
Supper once more on reindeer meat. This time prepared as a sort of a
stew with onions--again very good. But we were to leave after supper
for St. Michael and I see no intention to that effect. Instead they all
go once more to the corral to continue the work until about 11 p. m.
So I have to settle for the night, with some hope that we may leave in
the morning. We sleep four side by side in a tent 10 feet wide. Luckily
they had a spare clean blanket or two, and but one of the three snores,
and he like a lady; also the weather has cleared and is warmer, so the
night is fairly good.
Wednesday, July 14. Morning bright, calm. Breakfast, and all hurry off
to corral without even any explanation--just a few casual words, from
which I understand that we shall not go. So I write whole forenoon,
though feeling none too good about the delay. Had I my own boat, as
one should have in this country, all would be different. As it is I am
utterly helpless. At lunch speak to Mr. Williams; and though not much
willing, he half promises that we may go to St. Michael to-night.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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