The traveller ought to carry with him everything he needs, and his
needs should be few, because luggage is a great trouble. Unlike
some South American lines, the railway companies in Argentina are
responsible in that respect, but porters and others are exorbitant,
and a piece of luggage rapidly devours its own value in transport
charges. Exactly the same clothing should be taken as in England, and
ordinary riding kit should be added, also a soft hat, as affording a
better protection against the sun than a hard felt or cap. Revolvers
or other weapons are unnecessary; indeed nothing is required but what
is constantly used at home.
Banks are to be found everywhere, so there is no difficulty about
money. The Argentine dollar, which is in universal use, is worth about
1s. 9d.
The hotels at Buenos Aires, as has been said, are not remarkably good,
and they are certainly expensive. All are noisy, for the trams run
early and late, and a very high price has to be paid for good rooms.
But any one who is prepared to pay handsomely can make himself very
comfortable. As regards up-country hotels, it is not possible to give
a favourable account. At Rosario there are several good-sized houses
of entertainment, but they have no particular merit, except that they
are cheaper than in the capital. In this rapidly expanding city a very
large hotel is being built, which will certainly supply a long-felt
want, and doubtless it will be much superior to anything at present to
be found at Rosario. At Mendoza there is a large hotel of very
handsome appearance, but probably the best accommodation there is to
be afforded by a hotel kept by a genial old Frenchman, who has almost
abandoned the Parisian in favour of the tongue of Castile. The
courtyard, dotted with fruit-trees, and the low buildings with their
screened doors, are strongly reminiscent of an Indian up-country
hotel. Hotels in other provincial towns are by no means good. It is
from the cooking that the traveller will chiefly suffer, for there is
usually little to complain of on the score of cleanliness, and the
rooms are large, though bare. The Argentine has a good appetite, but
he appears to be content to satisfy it chiefly with meat, and this is
more often tough than not. The menu contains an imposing array of
dishes, which are served without stint, but they are almost all beef,
mutton, or veal in some form or other, and this diet, moderate in
quality and cooked without art, is extremely monotonous. The light
wines of the country are a valuable help in getting through these
indigestible meals, and the white wine is particularly good. The
peaches, grapes, and other fruits are of excellent quality, but they
are not always easy to obtain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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