As regards travelling in Argentina, the traveller will find no
difficulty as long as he keeps to the railway lines, which give a
splendid service to almost every part of the country except Patagonia.
When the railway fails, he will of course have to make his own
arrangements for horses and mules and the like. An extremely useful
work is the fifth edition of the Mulhalls' "Handbook of the River
Plate." A new edition of this book is urgently needed,[158] for the
last appeared in 1885, and the extremely full statistical information
is quite out of date, and travelling in the country, which the
handbook well describes, is much easier than it was in those days. But
the writers draw up with great care a number of interesting routes,
and the traveller, using them as a foundation, can easily bring the
information up to date, and will find an interesting study in noting
the wonderful changes which have come over Argentina in exactly a
quarter of a century. In the bibliography an attempt has been made to
enumerate the important books on the whole subject, and that of
Captain Musters on Patagonia may be recommended. A great many
wanderers in the early part of the nineteenth century have left highly
interesting accounts of their adventurous travels. In those days
ferocious Indians, who massacred every small party of white men at
sight, revolutionary soldiers, and cruel bandits added greatly to the
dangers of such excursions, and a journey across the Pampas was looked
upon as almost equivalent to taking leave of the world. A young
gentleman in the first edition of his book remarks with gentle
melancholy that, being disappointed in his hopes of happiness by a
"beloved female," he had decided to travel in the Plate district. His
editorial friend appends a note that the gentleman had been last heard
of in a remote part of Chile many years ago, and was believed to have
perished. However, the traveller happily returned and published a
second edition or work in which he accounted for his long silence by a
series of hardships, among which a lengthy term of imprisonment was
only one item. Among these books that of Head is one of the most
entertaining, but Darwin's "Voyage of the _Beagle_," must be held to
be probably the best work ever published on Argentina, and he observed
the country at a most interesting period. Adventures would be hard to
find nowadays in the Pampas, but the greater part of Patagonia is as
wild and inaccessible as ever, and in many regions of the Gran Chaco
the explorer carries his life in his hands owing to the fierce
disposition of the Indians.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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