A trip into the canon down one of the trails makes its magnitude even
more impressive than a rim view. The distance across the chasm is also
much greater than what it seems to be, which is demonstrated by the
blue haze that fills the canon. The nearby buttes are perfectly
distinct, but as the distance increases across the great gorge the haze
gradually thickens until the opposite wall is almost obscured by the
mist.
The myriads of horizontal lines which mark the different strata of
rocks have the appearance of a maze of telegraph wires strung through
the canon.
A ride leisurely on horseback along the rim trail from Thurber's old
camp to Bissell's Point, seven miles up the canon, and back is easily
made in a day. It presents a panorama of magnificent views all along
the rim, but Bissell's is conceded to be the best view point on the
canon. From this point about thirty miles of river can be seen as it
winds in and out deep down among the rocks. The Colorado river is a
large stream, but as seen here a mile below and several miles out, it
dwindles into insignificance and appears no larger than a meadow brook.
The river looks placid in the distance, but is a raging, turbulent
torrent in which an ordinary boat cannot live and the roar of its wild
waters can be distinctly heard as of the rushing of a distant train of
cars.
A second day spent in riding down the canon to Grand View Point and
back is equally delightful. Looking across a bend in the canon from
Grand View Point to Bissell's Point the distance seems to be scarcely
more than a stone's throw, yet it is fully half the distance of the
circuitous route by the rim trail.
There are three trails leading into the canon and down to the river,
the Bright Angel, Grand View and Hance trails, which are at intervals
of eight and twelve miles apart. They are equally interesting and
comparatively safe if the trip is made on the back of a trained pony or
burro with a competent guide.
The Hance trail is a loop and is twenty miles long. It is seven miles
down to the river, six miles up the stream and seven miles back to the
rim. It was built single handed by Captain John Hance, who has lived
many years in the canon. The trail is free to pedestrians, but yields
the captain a snug income from horse hire and his own services as guide
for tourists who go over the trail.
Captain Hance is an entertaining raconteur and he spins many
interesting yarns for the amusement, if not the edification, of his
guests. The serious manner in which he relates his stories makes it
sometimes hard to tell whether he is in jest or earnest. His
acknowledged skill in mountaineering, and felicity in romancing has won
for him more than a local reputation and the distinguished title of
Grand Canon Guide and Prevaricator.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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