Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
August 15.--Weighing from Samsun at night, it is early morning as we
cast anchor off Kerasun--Kerasun with its castled rock thrown seawards
from the range, the lofty headland of the bay, from which the town
curves westwards and sinks to the waterside under the shadow of the
mountain wall. Were it not for the needle forms of minaret and cypress,
rising against the terraces of white walls and red roofs which mount
from the water's edge, we might be sailing on the Rhine, past some
grim old burgh, dominating the cluster of peaceful habitations which
cower at its skirts. In less than three hours the barges are emptied,
and we are proceeding on our course. Almost immediately we pass close
to a little island, a rare object along this shore. It is a mere fleck
of rock, picturesquely encircled by feudal walls and towers. The range
on our right hand is always rising in elevation; hard porphyritic
rocks are beginning to take the place of the crumbling limestone;
the ridges, clad with firs to the very summits, stand up one behind
another ever loftier and more abrupt. At the same time the lower
slopes increase in verdure; orchards and plantations clothe each
respite of open ground. Small settlements succeed one another more
closely, the houses peeping out with their white faces from the soft,
leafy background of green.
Such is the appearance of the shore we are skirting this morning--the
range growing in height, the vegetation increasing, the characteristic
beauties of the coast now, perhaps, for the first time imprinting
a lasting image upon the mind. Like the Mediterranean, this sea
is almost tideless--the narrow strip of sand, upon which the waves
plash, is unencumbered with those oozy beds of giant seaweed which,
scattered in fragrant streamers upon our English seaboards, whet the
freshness of our sea-breeze. Beyond this margin rise the first spurs
of the mountains, or immediately descend into the deep, clear waters
in the form of bold capes. If this coast yields to some in variety
of outline, and is wanting in those combinations of sinuous bays and
sea-thrown islands which lend such beauty to the landscapes of western
Asia Minor and to the European shore of the Mediterranean Sea, it
is surpassed by none in distinctness of character, in singleness of
effect. Day after day it is the same long belt of mountains always
following the shore, the same long series of parallel ridges rising
roughly parallel to the shore. The persistence of the range, the
regularity of the system, the many signs along the seaboard of an
ever-increasing development in the scale of the mountain walls which
lie behind--all contribute to the growing consciousness that this
foot of the barrier, the pleasing inlets of this shore, are but the
threshold of some commanding piece of natural architecture of which
we long to realise the plan. While the imagination is stimulated by
this largeness of feature, the eye also is pleased. Groves of lofty
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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