Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces — John Shaqi
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
The anchorage of Trebizond receives the first flush of morning;
a mellow light is thrown upon the terraces of the eastern suburb,
circling seawards down the lower slopes of Mount Mithros to the point
of the little cape. Here and there among the buildings rows of tall
cypresses still hold the shadows of night; but the white faces of
the houses soon dispel the darkness, and their glass windows reflect
in a glow of dazzling splendour the lurid brilliance of the rising
sun. Nowhere else than in these landscapes of the Black Sea and the
Caspian is the dawn more essentially the "rosy-fingered," or the
sea at sunrise "the glass-green." As the rays commence to break, the
wind freshens and the black cypresses wave and sway. Down the coast,
beyond the dark cliff of Mithros, the mountains of the seaboard
are massed in savage parapets beneath the rising sun; the faithful
clouds cling to their slopes or float above them, a sky of cold,
silvery greys. Westwards, above the point of the little promontory,
under the immediate lee of which we lie, you just discern the softer
setting of the greater bay itself, as the outline of the range sweeps
in long undulations far out into the western sea. The day wakes; the
colours start; the world of pinks and opals disappears. The aspect of
the town is warm and genial, even in winter, when the background of
broken ridges look their wildest and the sparse fir trees stand out
darkly from the snow. Sunny meadows and flashes of green turf caress
the traveller, who may have journeyed through the long Eastern summer
and autumn in countries where scarcely a blade of grass grows. The
shore is soon astir, and the cries of the boatmen are carried down
the wind. Large, high-prowed galleys bear down upon us, the crews
racing for the first berth. We are surrounded by a swarm of ragged
human beings, shouting, scrambling, gesticulating, as their boats
and heavily laden barges drive against our tall iron sides.
The steamers anchor at some little distance from the shore, and
it takes a long pull, at a time when the wind is setting off the
land, to reach the little mole. The shore-boats are manned with
ill-miened youngsters, whose clamour never ceases from ship-side to
landing-stage. On the quay are arrayed the customs officers and their
assistants, motley groups in which the cast-off wardrobes of Europe
mingle with the coloured cottons of the East. What a relief to escape
from all this turmoil, to repose for a few minutes in a spacious
coffee-house, rising high above the harbour and the noise! A youth
is just completing his lustral service of the morning; the floor has
been swept and watered, the nargilehs are coiled--the peaceful figure
of Ion rises in the mind.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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