Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Imagine the Old Court of Trinity College at Cambridge without the
gateway, the hall and chapel, and with a church of some size placed in
the centre where the fountain stands. All four sides of the figure are
defined by low buildings, resembling the dwellings which constitute
two sides of the Cambridge court. I had always understood that our
quadrangle at Trinity was the largest in the world; although I believe
some American university was building one a few inches bigger not
so very long ago. But the great court of Edgmiatsin perhaps already
makes the record; it has a length, from west to east, of 349 feet
6 inches, and a breadth of 335 feet 2 inches. These measurements I
took myself, much to the astonishment of the crowd which assembled;
they were at a loss to find a theory which might explain so strange
an act. The length will be very much increased in a short while,
when the condemned east side has disappeared. A fine row of stone
buildings is in course of erection, which will enlarge that dimension
by many yards. Our cousins across the Atlantic must bestir themselves.
The western side of the court on the south of the covered way is
devoted to the residence of the Katholikos, while the block on the
north of the same passage is occupied by the bishops. There is no
style or pomp about the pontifical dwelling; and it would bear the
same relation to the Master's Lodge at Trinity as a four-roomed
cottage to a mansion. At the back is a little garden. The north
side consists of the rooms inhabited by the monks, and a terrace,
raised on pointed arches, extends from end to end. The building on
the east is in process of demolition, and, like its fellows on the two
sides which have already been described, is composed of comparatively
fragile material. I was given to understand that it had once housed
the seminary and printing press; a little bakery still occupies
the junction with the buildings on the south. These are constructed
of stone, and, although very plain, lend an air of solidity to the
entire quadrangle. Beginning on the west of this block we have first
a long refectory on the ground floor. Its dimensions are a length of
155 feet, and a breadth of 16 feet 6 inches. But it is a very humble
place when compared to the magnificent dining halls at Cambridge,
and it is not more than 14 feet in height. The ceiling is vaulted,
and like the walls is whitewashed over; the apartment is well lit
and is cool in summer. Two rows of narrow tables extend down it,
and on the west side is the throne and the canopy of the Katholikos,
both in carved wood. Should he join the monks at dinner, his table is
spread beneath the canopy. Parallel with this refectory and facing the
outhouses on the south is placed a similar chamber for the servants,
a part of the space upon the east being occupied by the kitchen. The
storey above the refectories is tenanted by the library, while the
eastern portion of the buildings is taken up by granaries and store
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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