Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
rooms both on the ground and upper floors.
Except for the pilgrims' court, with adjacent structures, and
the garden of the Katholikos--the one on the southern, the other
on the south-western side--the space between the outer wall and
the great court is for the most part vacant ground. What edifices
there have been raised within it are of an unsubstantial character,
and may have been allowed to fall into ruin. The fine sites which
are thus forthcoming are being rapidly utilised, and I have already
referred to the row of buildings which will extend the great court
upon the east and which at the time of our visit were approaching
completion. In a line with this new block, in which red and grey
stones diversify the masonry, is situated further south the house
which lodges the printing press, a solid stone structure. The
transformation of Edgmiatsin from a residence of ignorant monks
into a seat of education, the home of cultured men, is proceeding
year by year; and it is even possible that the bricks and mortar,
or, to speak more correctly, the excellent masonry is in advance
of the needs which it is intended to supply. Wealthy Armenians are
fond of endowing the famous cloister, for which they do not need the
incitement of meetings at some Devonshire House. But the form of gift
dearest to them is the erection of a building, which stands there
so that all may see. This preference for the concrete and visible
is deeply ingrained in them, and they are able to gratify it owing
to the great skill of the Armenian masons. Plans were shown me which
provided a palace for the Katholikos and the rebuilding of the north
side of the quadrangle. These, I believe, have already been decided
upon, one of our party at the private table of the Katholikos having
provided the greater part of the funds. I was also invited to look at
some very elaborate drawings for the enlargement and adornment of the
church. No sooner had they been handed round than one of the guests
of His Holiness expressed his readiness to defray the cost. Speaking
as one who came fresh to Edgmiatsin, I did my best to dissuade the
acceptance of this last project. To enlarge the church would be to
dwarf the fine proportions of the court; indeed the contrary course
would be well-advised. One would not very much regret the abolition
of the portal, while the excrescence on the east, containing the
treasury and room of relics, should certainly be pulled down. His
Holiness favoured the idea of erecting a new church outside the walls,
to supplement the space available in the present building.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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