Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
We were assigned a room in the condemned block on the east of the
quadrangle, wherein we spread our rugs and erected our camp beds. It
was 26 feet square, with a lofty wooden ceiling, supported by two
pillars of the same material. The adjoining apartment was in process
of demolition, but, although without a roof, it served admirably as a
kitchen, while the flooring provided fuel for our fire. When all was
in order we should not have exchanged the results of our improvisation
even for the creations of the Cambridge upholsterer, mellowed in the
hands of the Cambridge bedmaker; while, as for living, was it not
preferable to possess the whole of our scapegrace cook than to share
the services of the most virtuous of gyps? Each day as we mounted our
staircase, which exactly recalled its sad Cambridge counterparts, I
was struck by the resemblance of my new surroundings to those among
which I had grown up in the Old Court of Trinity, with the sky and
the fountain and the adjacent cloister, where the glory of the foliage
and lawn and river is spread in mystery beyond the trellis screens.
Even beneath this tropical sun the mind of man has surpassed his
difficulties; and just as the Cam has been converted from a melancholy
ditch into a brimming waterway, threading a landscape of lawn and
forest, so the Kasagh has been impressed into the service of an
artificial lake, bordered by shady avenues. Extremely pleasant is the
stroll round this spacious basin, which is due to the refinement of
Nerses V. (1761-1857). It is situated just outside and south of the
cloister; and while from one side the view discloses the dome and a
cupola of the cathedral (Fig. 50), on the other it is the vault of
Ararat and the pyramid of the Lesser Ararat that are outlined above
the soft foreground of water and trees (Fig. 51). It was a pleasure
to instance this work to General Frese and my Russian acquaintances
as bearing testimony to the sense of security inspired by Russian
rule. The cloister and even the bazar are surrounded by walls worthy
of a fortress, a relic from the old Persian times. The Russians
appear on the scene, and the imprisoned monks disport in the open,
which they make to bloom with luscious groves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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