Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces — John Shaqi
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
Indeed the prospect over the walls and towers of the city to
the distant sea beyond must at all times have been one of surpassing
beauty, whether seen from the windows of the Imperial residence, or
from these airy heights above the town. To the palace was displayed
the long perspective of the city architecture outlined against the
blue bay--the massive cross-walls cleaving the crowded quarters,
the domes of the churches glancing in the brilliant sunlight, and,
interspersed, quiet respites of shade and leafiness, where some portico
with frescoed walls and row of marble pillars recalled the habits of
the classical age. From the higher standpoint of the race-course all
the rich detail of this scene was blended and subdued; the eye would
follow the long line of parapets and towers descending by the side of
the sinuous streak of verdure which marked the course of the western
ravine. The palace windows, which still rise above the head of that
ravine, commanded the landscape of the west, the wide bay with its
peaceful setting of cultivated hillsides stretching seawards to the
distant cape.
Among the most pleasing and, perhaps, not the least striking feature
in the composition of these scenes must at all times have been the
luxuriance and variety of the vegetation which is natural to this
soil. The necessary moisture is provided, not by stagnant pools and
marshes, as in the country watered by the Kolchian rivers further
east, but by salubrious springs, bubbling from the surface of the rock
and collecting in rustling streams. The sun is indeed the fiery orb
of Eastern landscapes; but the climate is tempered by the chilling
winds from across the sea, bringing rain and mist in their train. The
outcome of these conditions is the simultaneous exuberance of the
trees and plants which flourish upon the coasts of the Mediterranean
and of the leafy giants of our Northern woods; side by side with shady
thickets of chestnut, elm, oak and hazel, groves of cypress, laurel
and olive grace the shore. The wild vine hangs in festoons from the
branches, and in sheltered places the orange tree, the lemon, and the
pomegranate thrive and yield their fruit. All our fruits are found
in the well-stocked gardens, while the fig of Trebizond is of old as
famous as the grapes of Tripoli and the cherry of Kerasun. Cucumbers
are cultivated, and heavy pumpkins, and tobacco, and Indian corn, with
its reed-like stalks and luscious leaves. The beautiful pink flowers
of the oleander may be seen rising above some orchard wall. In the
middle of the seventeenth century we are told of upwards of thirty
thousand gardens and vineyards inscribed in the city registers, and
at that time the slopes about Boz Tepe were completely covered with
vines. But it is on the western rather than on the eastern side of
the fortress that Nature has most freely lavished her gifts; and on no
spot with more abundance or greater effectiveness than on the western
ravine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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