In taking leave of the book--and it has been a long connection--the mind rests with pleasure and gratitude upon the help given without stint by fellow-workers in the same or in different fields. To my friend, Mr. R. W. Graves, now Consul-General in Crete, I am indebted for a lengthy spell of hospitality and delightful companionship in distant Erzerum. I have borrowed freely from his intimate knowledge of extensive regions in Turkish Armenia, as well as from that acquired by my friend, Major Maunsell, now our Consul at Van, the principal contemporary authority on Kurdistan. Geheimrath Dr. G. Radde of Tiflis has rendered me valuable assistance on more than one occasion; and it is also a pleasure to feel conscious in many ways of my obligations to my friend, Mr. L. de Klupffell, formerly of Batum. At home I have received much kindness from Mr. Fortescue of the British Museum library, and from Dr. Mill, who has so long presided over the library of the Royal Geographical Society, and whose recent retirement from that office in order to devote himself to his scientific work is keenly regretted by those whom he encouraged by his assistance and advice. The book has brought me several new friends, among them Mr. F. C. Conybeare of Oxford, the extent of my debt to whom, in various directions, it would be difficult to estimate. Professor Sayce has kindly looked over the sheets dealing with the Vannic empire, and contributed several valuable suggestions. Prof. E. Denison Ross has helped me with the Mussulman inscriptions, besides informing me upon a number of obscure points. A portion of the narrative of the ascent of Ararat has already appeared in Messrs. Scribner's Magazine, reprinted in Mountain Climbing, a book published by this firm. Parts of the concluding chapters of each volume, entitled "Statistical and Political," have seen the light in the shape of a series of articles in the Contemporary Review. H. F. B. LYNCH. The map which accompanies my first volume will be on sale separately at Messrs. Stanford's in Longacre. CONTENTS PAGE CHAPTER I The Coast and the Port 1 CHAPTER II Ascent to Armenia 37 CHAPTER III To Akhaltsykh 53 CHAPTER IV To Akhalkalaki 72 CHAPTER V At Akhalkalaki 86 CHAPTER VI Prospect from Abul 92 CHAPTER VII Gorelovka and Queen Lukeria 96 CHAPTER VIII To Alexandropol 118 CHAPTER IX At Alexandropol 124 CHAPTER X To Erivan 133