Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
It is through an opening in that wall that we pass from the
life of the sea-shore into the more intense and throbbing life
of the bazar. In old times one of the great gates gave issue
from the lower fortress to the important riparian quarters on
the east. This gate, the bazar gate or gate of Mumkhaneh (candle
factories), has been removed to give space to a broad street. The
stream from the eastern ravine, which passes outside the walls,
is taken by a tunnel through this crowded quarter. The bazars
adjoin the fortress; they are well stocked and extensive. The
more one walks in Trebizond, the more one is impressed by the
shyness of the women; nowhere in the East have I seen them more
ashamed to show the face. Nowhere does one realise more keenly
the loss of colour and gaiety which this muffling and veiling of
women entails. A fine example of an old Italian magazine may be
seen in this neighbourhood; it is called the Bezestan (repository
of stuffs, No. 16). Where the bazar is at its busiest, a massive
square building of stone and brick rises above the lines of booths
with their shadowed recesses. It is entered by four doors, of wood
plated with iron, one on each side. In the centre is a well; the
roof rested on four piers and sprang from vaultings at each angle
of the square. The piers and vaultings still remain, but the roof
is gone. The place is occupied by sellers of quilts, or coverlets
stuffed with cotton, which take the place of blankets in the East.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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